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00:00:06,000 --> 00:00:12,074
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00:01:39,968 --> 00:01:44,948
[OCEAN WAVES]

3
00:02:09,299 --> 00:02:10,991
Oh my gosh.

4
00:02:17,816 --> 00:02:19,310
It's kind of big, huh?

5
00:02:24,499 --> 00:02:28,956
OK, I need to go.

6
00:02:30,103 --> 00:02:31,622
Good luck, brother.

7
00:03:08,679 --> 00:03:12,082
There really is nothing
like being on a huge wall

8
00:03:14,049 --> 00:03:18,364
just with your climbing
shoes, your chalk bag,

9
00:03:20,981 --> 00:03:23,682
and dangling by your fingertips.

10
00:03:34,968 --> 00:03:36,932
The waves are smashing
into the wall.

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00:03:38,796 --> 00:03:42,550
You can actually feel the
vibrations in the cliff,

12
00:03:42,925 --> 00:03:44,455
and the reverberation
in your ears.

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00:04:27,964 --> 00:04:31,407
Looking around, being in
the most spectacular place,

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00:04:32,638 --> 00:04:36,778
and feeling like the power
of the position that I'm in.

15
00:04:48,095 --> 00:04:51,195
There is this moment of truth
where you make a decision.

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00:04:51,385 --> 00:04:52,815
You either go or you don't go.

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00:05:19,406 --> 00:05:24,022
[SCREAMING]

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00:05:25,652 --> 00:05:29,747
[YELLING]

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00:05:29,921 --> 00:05:32,551
When you commit
to that move, it's

20
00:05:32,585 --> 00:05:34,715
pretty freaking spectacular.

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00:05:39,072 --> 00:05:42,162
For me, one of the most
special places on the planet

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is this island, Mallorca.

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00:05:47,232 --> 00:05:50,443
It's this plug of limestone
in the Mediterranean Sea.

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00:05:50,456 --> 00:05:53,316
And it's just surrounded
by overhanging cliffs

25
00:05:53,330 --> 00:05:54,279
on all sides.

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00:05:56,256 --> 00:05:58,462
All of these beautiful,
sweeping walls,

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00:05:59,502 --> 00:06:01,876
rounded and sculpted by the sea.

28
00:06:02,982 --> 00:06:04,694
There's just limitless
possibilities

29
00:06:04,694 --> 00:06:05,867
for deep water soloing.

30
00:06:08,032 --> 00:06:12,950
When I first came out here, it
was this very intense moment

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00:06:12,948 --> 00:06:14,427
in my life.

32
00:06:15,663 --> 00:06:17,298
My mom had just passed away.

33
00:06:23,292 --> 00:06:26,136
Climbing here opened my
eyes to a whole new world

34
00:06:26,564 --> 00:06:28,464
and helped me move forward.

35
00:06:29,827 --> 00:06:33,617
I found this amazing arch and
it became an all consuming

36
00:06:33,619 --> 00:06:34,317
project.

37
00:06:38,302 --> 00:06:42,711
[YELLING]

38
00:06:42,911 --> 00:06:46,501
When I finally did Es Pontás,
it was a really powerful

39
00:06:46,516 --> 00:06:47,236
experience.

40
00:06:51,571 --> 00:06:55,300
Ever since then, there is
like this very special place

41
00:06:55,301 --> 00:06:57,601
in my life for this island.

42
00:07:03,377 --> 00:07:05,657
10 years have passed now.

43
00:07:05,870 --> 00:07:08,370
My life has changed a lot.

44
00:07:08,370 --> 00:07:09,900
I have a family now.

45
00:07:09,900 --> 00:07:10,886
I have a daughter.

46
00:07:19,260 --> 00:07:22,770
But I still come back
here, year after year.

47
00:07:22,770 --> 00:07:24,970
I still have that
fire and the passion

48
00:07:24,970 --> 00:07:27,097
for climbing ropeless
above the sea.

49
00:07:42,782 --> 00:07:44,990
I think the freedom that
you could have climbing here

50
00:07:44,990 --> 00:07:46,861
is unparalleled anywhere else.

51
00:07:50,090 --> 00:07:52,070
When you come to these
cliffs and they're just

52
00:07:52,070 --> 00:07:57,790
this big blank canvas, if you
want to climb in a circle,

53
00:07:57,790 --> 00:07:59,600
you can climb in a circle.

54
00:07:59,600 --> 00:08:01,260
You're not trying to
stay in the lines.

55
00:08:01,260 --> 00:08:04,230
You're not thinking about
grades, just total freedom

56
00:08:04,230 --> 00:08:08,140
of expression and creativity.

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00:08:15,101 --> 00:08:17,670
One of the coolest
things is arriving

58
00:08:17,670 --> 00:08:24,260
at the base of a virgin cliff
and on site free soloing,

59
00:08:24,260 --> 00:08:25,800
first ascent, up a wall.

60
00:08:37,020 --> 00:08:40,250
You're always looking
for really solid rock

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00:08:40,250 --> 00:08:42,560
and overhanging walls.

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00:08:42,560 --> 00:08:44,120
If it was less than
overhanging, then

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you'd just kind of like
bounce your way down.

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00:08:49,210 --> 00:08:53,122
[YELLING]

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00:08:54,590 --> 00:08:57,940
Having a project over the
water adds a lot of complexity

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00:08:57,940 --> 00:08:58,840
to the whole process.

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00:08:58,840 --> 00:09:01,780
[YELLING]

68
00:09:01,780 --> 00:09:04,034
Falling into the sea
hundreds of times.

69
00:09:04,034 --> 00:09:06,818
[YELLING]

70
00:09:09,470 --> 00:09:13,924
If you don't fall right from 60
feet up, could be really bad.

71
00:09:13,924 --> 00:09:17,807
[YELLING]

72
00:09:17,807 --> 00:09:18,525
Oh man.

73
00:09:21,230 --> 00:09:23,690
It's hard to push yourself
to the absolute limit

74
00:09:23,690 --> 00:09:25,253
when you're really high up.

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00:09:25,253 --> 00:09:26,914
[YELLING]

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00:09:38,310 --> 00:09:40,150
It's not just about
being a strong climber,

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00:09:40,150 --> 00:09:42,190
you also have to be
a strong swimmer.

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00:09:42,190 --> 00:09:45,130
You have to be knowledgeable
of the sea, currents,

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00:09:45,130 --> 00:09:46,622
the wind, the waves.

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00:09:46,622 --> 00:09:48,580
Really important to figure
out how you're going

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00:09:48,580 --> 00:09:49,840
to get back out of the water.

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Deal with being wet and drying
off, having multiple chalk

83
00:10:03,170 --> 00:10:06,080
bags, different pairs of shoes.

84
00:10:06,080 --> 00:10:10,880
Trying these big projects, you
have to enjoy that process.

85
00:10:10,880 --> 00:10:13,009
It's few and far between
when they come together

86
00:10:13,009 --> 00:10:15,160
but it's pretty
special when they do.

87
00:10:15,163 --> 00:10:18,642
[YELLING]

88
00:10:26,783 --> 00:10:31,041
[YELLING]

89
00:10:39,122 --> 00:10:44,394
[YELLING]

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Sometimes the way I scope
out these new areas, just

91
00:11:00,240 --> 00:11:04,790
go swim section
of the coastline.

92
00:11:04,790 --> 00:11:08,020
A couple of years
ago I swam for miles

93
00:11:08,020 --> 00:11:10,880
and ended up along this
really wild coastline

94
00:11:10,880 --> 00:11:14,980
that I had never been to before.

95
00:11:14,980 --> 00:11:17,980
The water was really
deep and really dark.

96
00:11:17,980 --> 00:11:20,260
It's an ominous place.

97
00:11:20,260 --> 00:11:24,472
I saw this one wall, it's
this beautiful piece of stone,

98
00:11:24,472 --> 00:11:28,680
with these orange and
red and gray streaks.

99
00:11:28,680 --> 00:11:32,853
It was everything I could hope
for and dream for in a project.

100
00:11:35,260 --> 00:11:40,560
You start with really fun
5.12 climbing, flowing

101
00:11:40,560 --> 00:11:43,760
through these big moves.

102
00:11:43,760 --> 00:11:47,780
But around 50 feet, it quickly
becomes this shear wall

103
00:11:47,780 --> 00:11:49,550
with barely anything
to hang onto.

104
00:11:54,950 --> 00:11:56,237
You enter the crux.

105
00:11:58,969 --> 00:12:03,820
And it's basically 12 moves of
just super gnarly bouldering.

106
00:12:09,299 --> 00:12:13,033
In it started off by getting to
this sloping under cling rail,

107
00:12:14,900 --> 00:12:17,510
trusting your feet on
these friction bumps.

108
00:12:20,751 --> 00:12:22,250
Get this crimpy pocket.

109
00:12:29,840 --> 00:12:31,230
This super big reach.

110
00:12:35,158 --> 00:12:38,190
[YELLING]

111
00:12:38,190 --> 00:12:42,790
I have like one or two
good tries and then need

112
00:12:42,790 --> 00:12:46,876
two rest days because it's
so powerful, it's so fingery.

113
00:12:46,907 --> 00:12:48,310
[YELLING]

114
00:12:51,200 --> 00:12:53,870
Some of the hardest moves I
have tried over the water.

115
00:12:57,302 --> 00:12:59,216
[YELLING]

116
00:13:01,020 --> 00:13:03,995
I started working out the
minute details of the sequence.

117
00:13:07,640 --> 00:13:10,960
You have to get this
delicate heel hook,

118
00:13:10,960 --> 00:13:15,160
release your right hand, and
grab this horrible hold that's

119
00:13:15,160 --> 00:13:16,462
facing the wrong way.

120
00:13:16,480 --> 00:13:17,799
[YELLING]

121
00:13:21,720 --> 00:13:25,350
After a lot of tries, I realized
this could be the next step

122
00:13:25,350 --> 00:13:27,330
in deepwater soloing
after Es Pontás.

123
00:13:33,760 --> 00:13:36,110
I've come back here 10
times over the years

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00:13:36,110 --> 00:13:39,920
to work on this thing,
spent over 30 days,

125
00:13:39,920 --> 00:13:43,460
falling hundreds of
times into the ocean.

126
00:13:43,460 --> 00:13:45,820
Trying things that are at
your limit, most of the time

127
00:13:45,820 --> 00:13:46,660
you're just failing.

128
00:13:51,530 --> 00:13:54,460
I'm 35 now.

129
00:13:54,460 --> 00:13:56,380
I live in Barcelona.

130
00:14:00,700 --> 00:14:03,870
I own a climbing gym.

131
00:14:03,870 --> 00:14:08,160
I started a series of
deepwater soloing competitions.

132
00:14:08,160 --> 00:14:09,200
Thanks to everyone.

133
00:14:09,200 --> 00:14:12,280
Thanks to all of
the competitors.

134
00:14:12,280 --> 00:14:13,130
Having a business.

135
00:14:13,130 --> 00:14:15,630
Having a family.

136
00:14:15,630 --> 00:14:16,769
Life is busy.

137
00:14:19,915 --> 00:14:22,668
[SPEAKING SPANISH]

138
00:14:31,070 --> 00:14:35,680
Coming back to Mallorca
year after year grounds me.

139
00:14:38,130 --> 00:14:42,420
These big projects
are like monuments,

140
00:14:42,420 --> 00:14:47,610
markers for important
moments in my life.

141
00:14:47,610 --> 00:14:51,594
[MUSIC PLAYING]

142
00:16:09,007 --> 00:16:11,483
[YELLING]

143
00:16:15,403 --> 00:16:17,255
[YELLING]

144
00:16:27,579 --> 00:16:31,692
[YELLING]

145
00:16:45,138 --> 00:16:49,620
[YELLING]

146
00:17:02,509 --> 00:17:09,310
[YELLING]

147
00:17:09,367 --> 00:17:12,388
Good job, dude.

148
00:17:26,140 --> 00:17:29,950
After all this effort it
was just an amazing feeling

149
00:17:29,950 --> 00:17:31,180
to bring this thing to life.

150
00:17:35,260 --> 00:17:39,340
I decided to call it Alasha,
dedicated to my daughter.

151
00:18:03,100 --> 00:18:04,090
[MUSIC PLAYING]

152
00:18:04,090 --> 00:18:06,120
[YELLING]

153
00:18:06,120 --> 00:18:10,080
The grade of 5.15
is the trophy grade.

154
00:18:10,080 --> 00:18:12,060
It's just a number,
but in some way

155
00:18:12,060 --> 00:18:14,130
it represents the unattainable.

156
00:18:14,130 --> 00:18:16,290
The top end of the game.

157
00:18:16,290 --> 00:18:19,740
5.15, honestly, I don't
know exactly what that

158
00:18:19,740 --> 00:18:21,291
is because I haven't done it.

159
00:18:21,291 --> 00:18:23,290
It's kind of like breaking
the four minute mile.

160
00:18:23,290 --> 00:18:25,170
It's this magical barrier.

161
00:18:25,170 --> 00:18:26,700
Having that number
in front of you

162
00:18:26,700 --> 00:18:28,380
creates this anxious feeling.

163
00:18:28,380 --> 00:18:32,610
It takes so much work
and so much talent.

164
00:18:32,610 --> 00:18:36,750
You have to be an Olympic
athlete, essentially.

165
00:18:36,750 --> 00:18:41,440
5.15 has been a goal
of mine for years now.

166
00:18:41,440 --> 00:18:42,600
It's not easy, man.

167
00:18:42,600 --> 00:18:43,976
I don't know
anything about 5.15.

168
00:18:43,976 --> 00:18:45,059
I've never climbed a 5.15.

169
00:18:45,059 --> 00:18:46,029
I've never even tried--

170
00:18:46,029 --> 00:18:49,500
I've never even touched
the holds on a 5.15.

171
00:18:49,500 --> 00:18:51,809
Only a few male climbers
have achieved the grade.

172
00:18:51,809 --> 00:18:55,529
And we've still been waiting
for that first 5.15 ascent

173
00:18:55,529 --> 00:18:58,360
by a woman.

174
00:18:58,360 --> 00:19:00,270
Today, there's
definitely an evolution

175
00:19:00,270 --> 00:19:03,720
of more women climbing.

176
00:19:03,720 --> 00:19:07,560
Pushing in every discipline.

177
00:19:07,560 --> 00:19:09,380
Training really, really hard.

178
00:19:09,380 --> 00:19:13,020
This is a huge
moment in our sport.

179
00:19:13,020 --> 00:19:16,650
The girls are catching
up to the guys.

180
00:19:16,650 --> 00:19:21,150
Right now what we're looking
at is this big number of 5.15.

181
00:19:21,150 --> 00:19:23,810
And there's a handful
of women gunning for it.

182
00:19:29,690 --> 00:19:32,160
We're all sort of sitting at
the edge of our chairs saying,

183
00:19:32,160 --> 00:19:34,840
who's going to do it?

184
00:19:34,840 --> 00:19:36,870
But I don't think
Margo Hayes was really

185
00:19:36,870 --> 00:19:38,520
on anyone's short list.

186
00:19:38,520 --> 00:19:42,090
Why is it that I'm a
person and I'm not a toad?

187
00:19:42,090 --> 00:19:45,150
Goodnight.

188
00:19:45,150 --> 00:19:48,756
My name's Margo Hayes and I'm--

189
00:19:48,756 --> 00:19:50,976
have a cough.

190
00:19:50,976 --> 00:19:52,310
OK, wait, start over.

191
00:19:54,840 --> 00:19:59,860
As far as climbing 15a, Margo
just wasn't on my radar.

192
00:19:59,860 --> 00:20:04,740
I didn't hear anyone talking
about Margo trying 5.15.

193
00:20:04,740 --> 00:20:06,460
Smile, Margo.

194
00:20:06,460 --> 00:20:07,770
No.

195
00:20:07,770 --> 00:20:10,355
Head up a tiny bit.

196
00:20:10,355 --> 00:20:12,580
Be a little more fierce.

197
00:20:12,580 --> 00:20:16,085
[MUSIC PLAYING]

198
00:20:22,830 --> 00:20:25,350
If you want to
climb 5.15, there's

199
00:20:25,350 --> 00:20:28,620
no greater concentration on
earth than in northern Spain.

200
00:20:28,620 --> 00:20:31,770
Spain is the mecca for
hard sport climbing.

201
00:20:31,770 --> 00:20:35,800
The amount of quality test
pieces is mind blowing.

202
00:20:35,800 --> 00:20:38,030
Of all the 5.15's
La Rambla,

203
00:20:38,030 --> 00:20:40,120
is one of the most
iconic routes.

204
00:20:40,120 --> 00:20:43,660
La Rambla has been talked about
as long as I've been a climber.

205
00:20:43,660 --> 00:20:46,770
It's an Alex Huber
route, rarely climbed.

206
00:20:46,770 --> 00:20:50,010
Super long, giant moves,
like a really harder style

207
00:20:50,010 --> 00:20:52,440
of climbing.

208
00:20:52,440 --> 00:20:55,770
Jon Cardwell and I had made
these plans to go to Spain

209
00:20:55,770 --> 00:20:57,540
and try La Rambla.

210
00:20:57,540 --> 00:20:59,460
Margo was living in
Europe at the time.

211
00:20:59,460 --> 00:21:03,010
We know Margo from
climbing in Colorado.

212
00:21:03,010 --> 00:21:05,970
I was her coach
when she was a kid.

213
00:21:05,970 --> 00:21:10,170
She wanted to join us, but we
had no idea what her goal was.

214
00:21:10,170 --> 00:21:12,724
We certainly didn't think
that it was La Rambla.

215
00:21:16,810 --> 00:21:19,890
We walk up to the crag in
Siurana. It's pretty intense,

216
00:21:19,890 --> 00:21:22,580
there's all these
world class climbers.

217
00:21:22,580 --> 00:21:26,390
Margo walks straight over to
La Rambla and started tying in.

218
00:21:26,390 --> 00:21:28,730
She was this unknown
19-year-old getting

219
00:21:28,730 --> 00:21:30,590
on one of the hardest
routes in Siurana.

220
00:21:30,590 --> 00:21:32,540
And a lot of people at
the crag were skeptical

221
00:21:32,540 --> 00:21:34,940
in the beginning, kind of
like, why is she trying it?

222
00:21:34,940 --> 00:21:35,930
Why is she up there?

223
00:21:39,740 --> 00:21:42,050
Matty and I definitely
had our doubts.

224
00:21:42,050 --> 00:21:44,990
We had trained our ass
off for this route.

225
00:21:44,990 --> 00:21:46,627
We were like, are you sure?

226
00:21:46,627 --> 00:21:47,710
Are you sure you're ready?

227
00:21:52,880 --> 00:21:56,450
When I can sense others
doubting what I can do,

228
00:21:56,450 --> 00:21:59,480
it's only more motivating.

229
00:21:59,480 --> 00:22:01,760
My determination triples.

230
00:22:04,550 --> 00:22:09,690
I've been thinking about La
Rambla for quite some time.

231
00:22:09,690 --> 00:22:13,160
I had watched countless
videos, visualized

232
00:22:13,160 --> 00:22:16,630
the sequences and the moves.

233
00:22:16,630 --> 00:22:20,773
And I came here to
climb my first 5.15.

234
00:22:20,793 --> 00:22:22,617
Come on, Margo.

235
00:22:30,970 --> 00:22:33,840
The men who have climbed it
tend to use brute strength

236
00:22:33,840 --> 00:22:35,134
to get through the moves.

237
00:22:35,134 --> 00:22:36,950
[YELLING]

238
00:22:36,950 --> 00:22:38,660
I have quite a bit
of flexibility.

239
00:22:43,960 --> 00:22:47,740
My feet can go above my head.

240
00:22:47,740 --> 00:22:50,278
My hips can stay pretty
close to the wall.

241
00:23:00,762 --> 00:23:02,250
Come on, Margo.

242
00:23:02,250 --> 00:23:05,440
It was pretty clear that
she had done her homework.

243
00:23:05,440 --> 00:23:06,670
She was ready for the fight.

244
00:23:09,156 --> 00:23:11,830
It's like [HISS].

245
00:23:11,830 --> 00:23:15,484
We were all working together
on the route, trading burns.

246
00:23:21,066 --> 00:23:24,970
That's everything I have.

247
00:23:24,970 --> 00:23:29,610
We started to realize that
she could send this route.

248
00:23:29,610 --> 00:23:34,116
And she's probably going to
send it before both of us.

249
00:23:34,116 --> 00:23:39,106
[SPEAKING SPANISH]

250
00:23:42,110 --> 00:23:44,780
Most people only can
try it one or two times

251
00:23:44,780 --> 00:23:48,200
before they're just exhausted.

252
00:23:48,200 --> 00:23:51,166
But Margo, she would try
it 3 times, 4 times a day.

253
00:23:51,168 --> 00:23:53,522
Oh, I blew it.

254
00:23:53,526 --> 00:23:54,457
Come on, come on.

255
00:23:55,569 --> 00:23:56,186
Come on.

256
00:23:59,695 --> 00:24:01,905
Your hands, huh,
did you survive?

257
00:24:01,905 --> 00:24:04,295
I was bleeding so bad, you
should see those holds.

258
00:24:04,313 --> 00:24:07,543
Wow, they do look
pretty ravaged.

259
00:24:07,600 --> 00:24:10,650
Usually before the last
try she would look to Matty

260
00:24:10,650 --> 00:24:13,870
and I with like bleeding
fingertips and tape everywhere

261
00:24:13,870 --> 00:24:16,900
and asked, should
I try it again?

262
00:24:16,900 --> 00:24:20,597
Like, I wouldn't, but if
you want to, I'll belay you.

263
00:24:23,530 --> 00:24:24,790
She was relentless.

264
00:24:24,790 --> 00:24:26,740
She was focused.

265
00:24:26,740 --> 00:24:28,870
But I've known Margo
since she was little.

266
00:24:28,870 --> 00:24:31,520
She has been like
that her entire life.

267
00:24:31,520 --> 00:24:33,900
Oh, and who's this?

268
00:24:33,900 --> 00:24:35,950
Margo.

269
00:24:35,950 --> 00:24:37,590
How are you feeling, Margo?

270
00:24:37,590 --> 00:24:38,590
I'm feeling fine.

271
00:24:38,590 --> 00:24:40,920
After falling in the river.

272
00:24:40,920 --> 00:24:45,050
As soon as she could walk,
she was a very active kid,

273
00:24:45,050 --> 00:24:47,700
climbing up on top
of the chicken coop

274
00:24:47,700 --> 00:24:49,930
and climbing up in trees.

275
00:24:49,930 --> 00:24:53,650
Instantly, she was a very
competitive individual.

276
00:24:53,650 --> 00:24:55,240
I competed as a gymnast.

277
00:24:55,240 --> 00:24:57,880
I always wanted to challenge
myself and get better.

278
00:25:01,310 --> 00:25:03,430
I've been setting goals
since I can remember.

279
00:25:03,430 --> 00:25:06,760
We find little pieces of paper
sitting around the house that

280
00:25:06,760 --> 00:25:08,470
have Margo's goals.

281
00:25:08,470 --> 00:25:10,820
I mean, those
aren't simple goals.

282
00:25:10,820 --> 00:25:13,660
You know, gold medal
in the Olympics.

283
00:25:13,660 --> 00:25:16,060
I would maybe push
it a little too fast

284
00:25:16,060 --> 00:25:18,580
and go for skills that maybe
I wasn't quite ready for.

285
00:25:18,580 --> 00:25:22,390
She ended up breaking bones
in her feet seven times.

286
00:25:22,390 --> 00:25:25,600
At one point, I'd broke a
bone in my foot at the gym.

287
00:25:25,600 --> 00:25:27,970
I knew that it would mean
I had to take time off.

288
00:25:27,970 --> 00:25:29,720
And I just didn't
want to tell my coach.

289
00:25:29,720 --> 00:25:31,490
I just wanted to keep
doing gymnastics.

290
00:25:31,490 --> 00:25:32,780
I went into the bathroom.

291
00:25:32,780 --> 00:25:35,080
I'm thinking, why does she
keep going in the bathroom?

292
00:25:35,080 --> 00:25:37,595
And it turns out that
she fractured her foot,

293
00:25:37,595 --> 00:25:39,345
and she was putting
her foot in the toilet

294
00:25:39,345 --> 00:25:42,130
to ice it and not tell me.

295
00:25:42,130 --> 00:25:45,070
During that time, I decided I
wanted to cut my hair short.

296
00:25:45,070 --> 00:25:46,757
Number two buzz cut on her head.

297
00:25:46,757 --> 00:25:48,340
And I remember saying,
I'm going to be

298
00:25:48,340 --> 00:25:50,698
able to do more pull ups
now cause I'm lighter.

299
00:25:53,000 --> 00:25:54,449
She had a lot of personality.

300
00:25:54,449 --> 00:25:56,240
You could just sense
that drive in somebody

301
00:25:56,240 --> 00:25:58,570
who just, wow, this person
is willing to do anything

302
00:25:58,570 --> 00:26:02,290
and willing to try hard,
and is a perfectionist.

303
00:26:02,290 --> 00:26:04,550
And Margo had the wow factor.

304
00:26:04,550 --> 00:26:08,036
You see somebody do a
skill, and you go, wow.

305
00:26:08,036 --> 00:26:09,410
We selected her
as very talented,

306
00:26:09,410 --> 00:26:11,990
and we started developing her
for the Talent Opportunity

307
00:26:11,990 --> 00:26:13,790
Program, the Olympic
selection committee.

308
00:26:13,790 --> 00:26:15,560
I qualified for the
National Testing,

309
00:26:15,560 --> 00:26:18,465
which was in Texas at
Bela Karolyi's ranch.

310
00:26:21,920 --> 00:26:23,900
And I remember my mom
picking me up from school

311
00:26:23,900 --> 00:26:25,430
and she said, you qualified.

312
00:26:25,430 --> 00:26:27,245
And I was like,
a team or b team?

313
00:26:27,245 --> 00:26:29,480
And she was like, b team.

314
00:26:29,480 --> 00:26:32,870
And I remember just crying.

315
00:26:32,870 --> 00:26:36,080
Ever since I was
little, I've always

316
00:26:36,080 --> 00:26:40,970
wanted to be the best
in things that I tried.

317
00:26:40,970 --> 00:26:43,940
Cats Gymnastics where
Margo trained as a gymnast

318
00:26:43,940 --> 00:26:45,740
also doubles as a climbing gym.

319
00:26:45,740 --> 00:26:47,780
Being in Boulder,
Colorado, you have

320
00:26:47,780 --> 00:26:49,700
some of the best in the
world training there.

321
00:26:49,700 --> 00:26:52,610
I remember watching the
climbers on the wall,

322
00:26:52,610 --> 00:26:55,640
like Robyn Erbesfield
and Lynn Hill.

323
00:26:55,640 --> 00:26:58,490
She would watch people
climbing and training.

324
00:26:58,490 --> 00:27:00,260
And she was kind of
curious about it.

325
00:27:00,260 --> 00:27:03,500
I did some top roping and
I ended up liking climbing.

326
00:27:03,500 --> 00:27:07,280
She came to team ABC with
really high expectations

327
00:27:07,280 --> 00:27:08,270
and goals for herself.

328
00:27:08,270 --> 00:27:11,150
I would show up at practice
and Margo would already

329
00:27:11,150 --> 00:27:12,351
be there, ready to go.

330
00:27:12,351 --> 00:27:13,850
And all the other
kids would be kind

331
00:27:13,850 --> 00:27:15,380
of running around goofing off.

332
00:27:15,380 --> 00:27:19,100
And she was different,
very driven, very focused.

333
00:27:19,100 --> 00:27:21,230
And it really struck
me as quite unusual

334
00:27:21,230 --> 00:27:24,140
that such a young
girl was so serious

335
00:27:24,140 --> 00:27:26,060
and so willing to push herself.

336
00:27:26,060 --> 00:27:27,890
The first time that I
went to a competition

337
00:27:27,890 --> 00:27:31,850
and I got butterflies in
my stomach, I was like, OK.

338
00:27:31,850 --> 00:27:32,520
I like this.

339
00:27:32,520 --> 00:27:34,550
I can do this sport, you know?

340
00:27:34,550 --> 00:27:38,000
She did her first 5.12, and
then her first 5.13, and then

341
00:27:38,000 --> 00:27:39,250
her first 5.14.

342
00:27:39,250 --> 00:27:41,510
That's when we first
started to get wind of,

343
00:27:41,510 --> 00:27:43,260
what's this girl capable of?

344
00:27:43,260 --> 00:27:46,470
I think I started believing in
my own ability more and more.

345
00:27:46,470 --> 00:27:48,800
And there was no
stopping that kid.

346
00:27:48,800 --> 00:27:51,070
You know, I see
Margo come to Rifle

347
00:27:51,070 --> 00:27:54,210
and do Bad Girls Club, that
route is really thuggy,

348
00:27:54,210 --> 00:27:56,720
mean, one of the hardest
ascents in the US.

349
00:27:56,720 --> 00:28:00,350
To see her do that, I
was just like, whoa.

350
00:28:00,350 --> 00:28:03,290
After I graduated
from high school,

351
00:28:03,290 --> 00:28:07,220
I decided to move to Europe,
learn another language,

352
00:28:07,220 --> 00:28:11,030
challenge myself and climb hard.

353
00:28:11,030 --> 00:28:13,100
Europe, it's a
really great place

354
00:28:13,100 --> 00:28:17,144
to be based if you want to
push yourself in the sport.

355
00:28:17,144 --> 00:28:19,088
[MUSIC PLAYING]

356
00:28:19,088 --> 00:28:25,090
In 1990, I moved to France and
I lived there for five years.

357
00:28:25,090 --> 00:28:29,510
It's a little bit like if you're
a surfer you go move to Hawaii.

358
00:28:29,510 --> 00:28:34,540
My goal was to be the
first woman to climb 5.14.

359
00:28:34,540 --> 00:28:37,300
There were people like
JB Tribout who said,

360
00:28:37,300 --> 00:28:41,660
oh, a woman will never do 5.14.

361
00:28:41,660 --> 00:28:42,820
Oh, really?

362
00:28:42,820 --> 00:28:44,900
I'm going to find
a way to do it.

363
00:28:44,900 --> 00:28:48,210
And so I ended up doing a
route that he had put up,

364
00:28:48,210 --> 00:28:53,650
first female ascent of a 5.14.

365
00:28:53,650 --> 00:28:56,350
I knew it was possible and
it was really important to me

366
00:28:56,350 --> 00:29:00,360
to actually prove that it was.

367
00:29:00,360 --> 00:29:02,150
That's the same thing
that Margo's doing.

368
00:29:05,140 --> 00:29:06,700
There's an objective out there.

369
00:29:06,700 --> 00:29:08,639
She knows it's
possible and she's

370
00:29:08,638 --> 00:29:09,640
going to find a way to do it.

371
00:29:13,040 --> 00:29:17,080
If you have any doubt and
you're right at that threshold,

372
00:29:17,080 --> 00:29:20,140
and you think that 5.15
belongs to men or only

373
00:29:20,140 --> 00:29:23,230
these people can do it, then
that little bit of weakness

374
00:29:23,230 --> 00:29:25,096
can cause you to fail.

375
00:29:25,096 --> 00:29:28,410
Come on, Margo.

376
00:29:28,410 --> 00:29:30,973
What is the 5.15 barrier?

377
00:29:30,981 --> 00:29:32,147
Good.

378
00:29:33,610 --> 00:29:37,520
Is it that women
haven't tried it?

379
00:29:37,520 --> 00:29:40,970
Do we not believe we can do it?

380
00:29:40,970 --> 00:29:42,806
Is Margo going to change that?

381
00:29:42,806 --> 00:29:44,755
Come on, Margo.

382
00:29:44,755 --> 00:29:46,235
You can do this.

383
00:29:46,235 --> 00:29:46,735
Come on.

384
00:29:50,178 --> 00:29:51,118
Good.

385
00:29:58,586 --> 00:29:59,085
Yes.

386
00:30:03,108 --> 00:30:04,322
Good.

387
00:30:06,060 --> 00:30:08,012
Come on.

388
00:30:09,027 --> 00:30:12,770
Come on, come on, come on.

389
00:30:12,770 --> 00:30:15,340
Let's go, Margo.

390
00:30:15,340 --> 00:30:15,840
Yes.

391
00:30:24,714 --> 00:30:25,700
Squeeze, Margo.

392
00:30:29,151 --> 00:30:31,116
Come on.

393
00:30:31,116 --> 00:30:31,616
Yes.

394
00:30:35,043 --> 00:30:37,018
Breathe, Margo.

395
00:30:50,860 --> 00:30:55,300
You get to this point where
you know it's possible for you

396
00:30:55,300 --> 00:30:56,490
and you know you can do it.

397
00:31:00,370 --> 00:31:05,748
It's important to stay in
the moment, breathe, relax.

398
00:31:14,630 --> 00:31:18,987
On the last two moves, my
breathing started to change.

399
00:31:18,987 --> 00:31:20,536
I felt like I was shaking.

400
00:31:34,520 --> 00:31:36,338
Oh my god.

401
00:31:38,976 --> 00:31:40,972
Take.

402
00:31:40,998 --> 00:31:44,990
[CHEERING]

403
00:31:46,318 --> 00:31:47,815
Oh my god.

404
00:31:47,815 --> 00:31:51,308
I'm crying.

405
00:31:51,308 --> 00:31:53,920
I feel like I'm dreaming.

406
00:31:53,929 --> 00:31:54,770
Nice job.

407
00:31:54,774 --> 00:31:55,353
Thanks.

408
00:32:01,815 --> 00:32:03,280
Yeah.

409
00:32:03,280 --> 00:32:06,830
It was a big deal for
the climbing community,

410
00:32:06,830 --> 00:32:09,620
for women, for all of us.

411
00:32:14,640 --> 00:32:19,079
I was like, oh man, go Margo.

412
00:32:19,093 --> 00:32:21,708
Thank you.

413
00:32:22,940 --> 00:32:24,170
She sends La Rambla.

414
00:32:24,170 --> 00:32:26,210
It's this incredible experience.

415
00:32:28,930 --> 00:32:33,070
And then she's already
writing down new goals.

416
00:32:33,070 --> 00:32:36,681
It's like La Rambla was just
the stepping stone for something

417
00:32:36,681 --> 00:32:37,180
bigger.

418
00:32:40,575 --> 00:32:43,970
[MUSIC PLAYING]

419
00:32:48,820 --> 00:32:50,950
After climbing the
La Rambla, I was

420
00:32:50,950 --> 00:32:53,587
ready for the new challenge.

421
00:32:53,587 --> 00:32:57,790
[SPEAKING FRENCH]

422
00:32:57,792 --> 00:33:04,820
I've been living in the South
of France, just a short drive

423
00:33:04,820 --> 00:33:07,290
away from the legendary
climbing spot, Ceuse.

424
00:33:11,660 --> 00:33:16,580
Biographie is such a historic
line, one of the most beautiful

425
00:33:16,580 --> 00:33:19,870
if not the most
beautiful in the world.

426
00:33:19,870 --> 00:33:25,460
It's on a long crag at the top
of a hill with an open view

427
00:33:25,460 --> 00:33:27,040
on the south of France.

428
00:33:27,040 --> 00:33:29,930
So the place is beautiful.

429
00:33:29,930 --> 00:33:35,480
I was three years old when
Chris Sharma climbed Biographie.

430
00:33:35,480 --> 00:33:39,110
It was a huge deal,
the first 5.15,

431
00:33:39,110 --> 00:33:41,730
the hardest climb in the world.

432
00:33:41,730 --> 00:33:44,189
Biographie was this
futuristic project.

433
00:33:44,189 --> 00:33:45,980
You know, I wanted to
try the next level up

434
00:33:45,980 --> 00:33:48,200
and see what I was capable of.

435
00:33:48,200 --> 00:33:52,890
Even Chris, he spent four
summers to climb that route.

436
00:33:52,890 --> 00:33:57,060
And after Chris, it's
a lot of long stories.

437
00:33:57,060 --> 00:34:00,640
The French guy, Sylvain
Millet, he spent on it

438
00:34:00,640 --> 00:34:05,040
30 tries and eight years
only focusing on that.

439
00:34:05,040 --> 00:34:08,660
A lot of very strong
climbers spend a lot of time.

440
00:34:08,660 --> 00:34:12,800
It's such a challenge
for so many climbers.

441
00:34:12,800 --> 00:34:15,760
You know with all of the
history behind the line,

442
00:34:15,760 --> 00:34:19,070
it comes with a lot of weight.

443
00:34:19,070 --> 00:34:20,780
I was back in the states.

444
00:34:20,780 --> 00:34:23,450
Margo was already starting
to try Biographie.

445
00:34:23,450 --> 00:34:25,030
And she convinced
Daniel Woods and I

446
00:34:25,030 --> 00:34:26,872
to come project it with her.

447
00:34:26,872 --> 00:34:28,850
Wow.

448
00:34:28,850 --> 00:34:31,070
When Matty and I
got there, Margo

449
00:34:31,070 --> 00:34:34,010
was going in deep
with Biographie,

450
00:34:34,010 --> 00:34:36,650
already making good links.

451
00:34:36,650 --> 00:34:37,520
I was impressed.

452
00:34:37,520 --> 00:34:39,770
I mean, she was able
to climb the first half

453
00:34:39,770 --> 00:34:41,420
of the route pretty easy.

454
00:34:44,460 --> 00:34:48,220
There are difficult sections
throughout the route.

455
00:34:48,220 --> 00:34:51,780
It has all different
aspects of sport climbing.

456
00:34:51,780 --> 00:34:55,289
Endurance is important but
power is also important.

457
00:34:55,291 --> 00:34:58,260
It's powerful and delicate.

458
00:34:58,260 --> 00:35:01,680
It was impressive watching
Margo on Biographie.

459
00:35:01,680 --> 00:35:06,090
She would fall on a
section and immediately

460
00:35:06,090 --> 00:35:08,700
pull back up, latch
onto the wall,

461
00:35:08,700 --> 00:35:10,240
and just rehearse the section.

462
00:35:10,240 --> 00:35:14,460
Take, lower, rehearse
the same section again,

463
00:35:14,460 --> 00:35:18,020
until she just had every move
ingrained into her system.

464
00:35:18,020 --> 00:35:21,916
[MUSIC PLAYING]

465
00:35:28,750 --> 00:35:33,840
At the top, that's when
it's the make or break.

466
00:35:33,840 --> 00:35:36,090
You've already
climbed 75, 80 feet.

467
00:35:38,960 --> 00:35:41,899
I go up right hand
to a little crimp.

468
00:35:41,899 --> 00:35:44,450
Then I go left hand
to a foot hold.

469
00:35:44,450 --> 00:35:47,239
Then I reach straight up.

470
00:35:47,239 --> 00:35:52,260
And I go out right to a pocket,
which I really love, actually.

471
00:35:52,260 --> 00:35:56,399
And I reach out far left hand.

472
00:35:56,399 --> 00:36:00,750
The little bowling ball,
the pocket with a thumb.

473
00:36:00,750 --> 00:36:03,589
This hold shuts down
a lot of climbers.

474
00:36:03,589 --> 00:36:06,899
When Sharma was trying
the first ascent,

475
00:36:06,899 --> 00:36:09,480
he fell here dozens of
times, year after year.

476
00:36:14,399 --> 00:36:17,770
One time I actually
got that left hand.

477
00:36:17,770 --> 00:36:18,596
Come on.

478
00:36:18,596 --> 00:36:19,416
Yes.

479
00:36:19,418 --> 00:36:21,854
Come on, Margo.

480
00:36:21,930 --> 00:36:25,470
I was so excited
and then I was off.

481
00:36:25,470 --> 00:36:27,470
[YELLING]

482
00:36:27,470 --> 00:36:28,970
No.

483
00:36:28,970 --> 00:36:32,361
God, I was bleeding so bad.

484
00:36:32,515 --> 00:36:33,604
My hold was so good.

485
00:36:33,607 --> 00:36:34,380
That was it.

486
00:36:34,970 --> 00:36:36,770
She was bleeding
all over the holds.

487
00:36:36,770 --> 00:36:41,830
I literally slipped
on my own blood.

488
00:36:41,830 --> 00:36:43,770
But Margo, she
never wants to rest.

489
00:36:43,770 --> 00:36:46,434
And she kept throwing
herself at it.

490
00:36:46,789 --> 00:36:47,838
Take.

491
00:36:48,272 --> 00:36:51,266
I think I should rest my tendon.

492
00:36:51,266 --> 00:36:51,950
Does it hurt?

493
00:36:51,950 --> 00:36:52,921
Yeah.

494
00:36:52,927 --> 00:36:55,927
I'm just going to do this
part and then be done.

495
00:36:56,300 --> 00:36:59,440
Matty and I tried to get Margo
to slow down so she wouldn't

496
00:36:59,440 --> 00:37:00,770
get a long term injury.

497
00:37:00,770 --> 00:37:02,540
But she wouldn't listen.

498
00:37:02,540 --> 00:37:04,780
She just kept
raging on the route.

499
00:37:04,780 --> 00:37:07,460
And could tell that just the
way she was climbing on it,

500
00:37:07,460 --> 00:37:10,053
her finger was
affecting her a lot.

501
00:37:11,779 --> 00:37:13,661
What the heck.

502
00:37:13,719 --> 00:37:14,760
Wait, you're lowering me?

503
00:37:14,760 --> 00:37:16,550
Yeah, I'm pulling rank.

504
00:37:20,390 --> 00:37:21,430
That was a winner.

505
00:37:24,710 --> 00:37:28,984
All of us worked
Biographie for a month.

506
00:37:29,317 --> 00:37:30,074
Come on, Daniel.

507
00:37:30,075 --> 00:37:30,609
Try hard.

508
00:37:30,602 --> 00:37:35,860
Daniel and I got shut down, and
we had to go home empty handed.

509
00:37:35,860 --> 00:37:39,560
But Margo, she just
kept working it.

510
00:37:39,560 --> 00:37:43,340
Time went by and I took
so many trips up to Ceuse

511
00:37:43,340 --> 00:37:44,900
that it's hard for me to count.

512
00:37:59,016 --> 00:37:59,978
Biographie.

513
00:37:59,974 --> 00:38:02,120
Good luck.

514
00:38:02,120 --> 00:38:05,680
It's much more difficult
for me than La Rambla was.

515
00:38:05,680 --> 00:38:08,912
Physically, but mostly mentally.

516
00:38:08,913 --> 00:38:09,918
No.

517
00:38:11,551 --> 00:38:12,050
Shit.

518
00:38:12,050 --> 00:38:13,700
I think that this
period for Margo

519
00:38:13,700 --> 00:38:17,790
was a period of exploration.

520
00:38:17,790 --> 00:38:24,950
OK, I've done 5.15, but then
questioning where her limit is.

521
00:38:24,950 --> 00:38:29,540
To her, it's not
about the great 5.15,

522
00:38:29,540 --> 00:38:32,990
not about being the first woman.

523
00:38:32,990 --> 00:38:37,422
It's just about pushing herself.

524
00:38:37,422 --> 00:38:40,218
[YELLING]

525
00:38:42,560 --> 00:38:45,440
Some days I'm at home and
then I have the telescope.

526
00:38:45,440 --> 00:38:48,020
When someone try
Biographie, I go and see.

527
00:38:50,670 --> 00:38:55,230
When Margo come for
this, I'm very curious.

528
00:38:55,230 --> 00:38:58,410
I was fortunate
enough with Biographie

529
00:38:58,410 --> 00:39:00,210
to have a really
great mentor, Arnaud

530
00:39:00,210 --> 00:39:03,520
Petit, a legendary
climber here in France.

531
00:39:03,520 --> 00:39:07,650
I've not seen someone
walking that hard a route.

532
00:39:07,650 --> 00:39:09,240
She's inspiring.

533
00:39:09,240 --> 00:39:12,010
She's really focused
on what she does.

534
00:39:12,010 --> 00:39:16,451
But she gives a lot,
maybe too much some times.

535
00:39:18,510 --> 00:39:20,722
It's raining out
there right now.

536
00:39:22,140 --> 00:39:23,910
I mean, it's definitely--
it's not ideal

537
00:39:23,910 --> 00:39:26,140
but that doesn't
mean it can't happen.

538
00:39:26,140 --> 00:39:29,250
The route's wet, it's
dripping down the wall.

539
00:39:29,250 --> 00:39:32,370
If the route's wet, that
just doesn't really--

540
00:39:32,370 --> 00:39:34,260
you can't really climb
hard when it's wet.

541
00:39:34,260 --> 00:39:36,826
But yeah, she's psyched.

542
00:39:36,826 --> 00:39:37,590
I don't get it.

543
00:40:01,796 --> 00:40:02,820
No, it's OK.

544
00:40:02,820 --> 00:40:05,030
I tried.

545
00:40:05,030 --> 00:40:07,130
I don't know, I'm
glad I came up today.

546
00:40:09,299 --> 00:40:09,919
We'll see.

547
00:40:18,090 --> 00:40:20,489
Margo's biggest
weakness is she just

548
00:40:20,489 --> 00:40:22,072
has a hard time
turning the light out.

549
00:40:24,249 --> 00:40:25,790
The biggest wish
and the biggest hope

550
00:40:25,790 --> 00:40:27,373
I'll always have for
Margo is that she

551
00:40:27,373 --> 00:40:32,340
can find a balance between
being so driven and having fun.

552
00:40:36,290 --> 00:40:41,120
I learned a lot from Margo,
a way to be positive,

553
00:40:41,120 --> 00:40:44,330
to be better for the next days.

554
00:40:44,330 --> 00:40:50,150
And this state of mind she has
is quite incredible, I think.

555
00:40:50,150 --> 00:40:53,249
Margo, she has no limit.

556
00:40:53,269 --> 00:40:57,719
She's training like a beast,
like training, training.

557
00:40:58,060 --> 00:40:59,282
People say, who's she?

558
00:40:59,282 --> 00:41:00,380
Who is this girl?

559
00:41:08,180 --> 00:41:10,790
I guess this climb
means a lot to me.

560
00:41:10,790 --> 00:41:14,320
I think that Biographie is
kind of a metaphor for life.

561
00:41:14,320 --> 00:41:17,472
But the climb
doesn't come easily

562
00:41:18,419 --> 00:41:21,188
and you have to put the work in.

563
00:41:21,629 --> 00:41:23,624
You have to stay present
and in the moment.

564
00:41:31,050 --> 00:41:36,567
It's definitely teaching
me patience and letting go.

565
00:41:36,875 --> 00:41:41,202
And coming back fearless.

566
00:41:46,882 --> 00:41:51,301
[WIND BLOWING]

567
00:42:00,630 --> 00:42:03,035
Come on, Margo.

568
00:42:04,058 --> 00:42:05,021
Yes, come on.

569
00:42:05,021 --> 00:42:05,521
Come on.

570
00:42:07,504 --> 00:42:08,486
Come on, get it right.

571
00:42:08,486 --> 00:42:10,574
Come on, nice.

572
00:42:10,579 --> 00:42:11,803
Yes.

573
00:42:11,804 --> 00:42:12,790
Come on.

574
00:42:12,799 --> 00:42:13,778
Come on.

575
00:42:14,163 --> 00:42:14,663
Nice.

576
00:42:14,663 --> 00:42:16,635
Come on, do it!

577
00:42:16,635 --> 00:42:18,607
Come on.

578
00:42:18,607 --> 00:42:22,058
Come on, do it.

579
00:42:22,058 --> 00:42:24,523
Yes, come on.

580
00:42:24,523 --> 00:42:26,002
Come on.

581
00:42:26,002 --> 00:42:26,822
Come on.

582
00:42:26,831 --> 00:42:28,050
Concentrate.

583
00:42:31,960 --> 00:42:37,270
When you break through and
when you do make it happen.

584
00:42:37,270 --> 00:42:38,120
Come on.

585
00:42:38,465 --> 00:42:40,171
Yes, come on.

586
00:42:40,176 --> 00:42:42,670
[CHEERING]

587
00:42:47,590 --> 00:42:51,420
It's this feeling that
you can't really describe,

588
00:42:51,420 --> 00:42:54,582
like kind of getting emotional.

589
00:42:54,582 --> 00:42:58,068
[MUSIC PLAYING]

590
00:42:59,064 --> 00:43:03,048
[CHEERING]

591
00:43:08,028 --> 00:43:13,008
[MUSIC PLAYING]

592
00:44:10,340 --> 00:44:12,270
All right, I'm going for it.

593
00:44:12,704 --> 00:44:13,204
Climbing.

594
00:44:26,558 --> 00:44:27,058
Fuck.

595
00:44:33,308 --> 00:44:35,735
Antoine, I've been better.

596
00:44:36,151 --> 00:44:39,240
I'm calling because I took
a little fall climbing.

597
00:44:39,246 --> 00:44:39,926
I'm in the hospital.

598
00:44:40,557 --> 00:44:41,621
I'm not going to
make it to work.

599
00:44:44,325 --> 00:44:45,700
I got kind of banged up.

600
00:44:45,700 --> 00:44:47,205
I don't know how serious it is.

601
00:44:47,205 --> 00:44:48,195
Climbing sucks.

602
00:44:51,165 --> 00:44:52,810
I have to get an x-ray.

603
00:44:52,810 --> 00:44:54,840
But I'll keep you
updated for sure.

604
00:44:54,840 --> 00:44:57,260
But you know, obviously
I can't come in today.

605
00:44:57,260 --> 00:44:58,500
OK, thank you.

606
00:44:58,500 --> 00:45:00,460
Bye.

607
00:45:00,460 --> 00:45:03,890
[MUSIC PLAYING]

608
00:45:15,650 --> 00:45:21,420
Yeah, I know this makes it
look really, really serious.

609
00:45:21,420 --> 00:45:23,422
No, that does make
it look really bad.

610
00:45:23,427 --> 00:45:25,002
I'm gonna die!

611
00:45:25,186 --> 00:45:26,818
Oh, man, dude.

612
00:45:26,818 --> 00:45:29,360
Yeah, it was a
bummer, the cam blew.

613
00:45:29,478 --> 00:45:33,539
Fucking, dude, two cams--

614
00:45:33,539 --> 00:45:34,918
Just one cam.

615
00:45:35,049 --> 00:45:37,898
I don't know, like mostly the
back's kind of what I'm worried

616
00:45:37,910 --> 00:45:39,740
about the most, probably.

617
00:45:39,740 --> 00:45:43,880
Brad has been on my radar for
a long time, really good rock

618
00:45:43,880 --> 00:45:45,320
climber, really strong.

619
00:45:45,320 --> 00:45:47,090
But I think what
makes him unique

620
00:45:47,090 --> 00:45:50,240
is his boldness and
commitment, kind of this lost

621
00:45:50,240 --> 00:45:53,390
world of dangerous climbing.

622
00:45:53,390 --> 00:45:54,500
My name's Brad Gobright.

623
00:45:54,500 --> 00:45:56,020
I'm 27 years old.

624
00:45:56,020 --> 00:45:58,190
I started climbing when
I was seven years old.

625
00:45:58,190 --> 00:46:01,070
I dropped out of college my
first year and sort of just

626
00:46:01,070 --> 00:46:03,230
been a dirt bag, traveling
dirt bag ever since.

627
00:46:10,712 --> 00:46:11,474
Oh, glory!

628
00:46:11,662 --> 00:46:15,170
I mean, I wouldn't be where I am
with climbing today, you know,

629
00:46:15,170 --> 00:46:17,460
if I hadn't done that.

630
00:46:17,460 --> 00:46:21,329
I lived in the boulders up in
Yosemite for months at a time.

631
00:46:21,328 --> 00:46:23,315
Wait, do you want to drink
lighter fluid, though?

632
00:46:28,550 --> 00:46:30,390
Brad had like two
shirts when we met him.

633
00:46:30,390 --> 00:46:33,672
And then Christmas came
and he got another shirt.

634
00:46:33,662 --> 00:46:34,831
I was like, oh, whoa.

635
00:46:34,820 --> 00:46:37,260
It's a third shirt.

636
00:46:37,260 --> 00:46:40,982
His car is not what I would
call nice or even good.

637
00:46:42,435 --> 00:46:44,560
His car is a piece of shit,
but it gets him around.

638
00:46:56,970 --> 00:46:58,330
I didn't have a lot of money.

639
00:46:58,330 --> 00:47:00,990
My goal is to work
as little as possible

640
00:47:00,990 --> 00:47:03,355
and climb as much as I could.

641
00:47:03,355 --> 00:47:04,690
It looks so good.

642
00:47:04,690 --> 00:47:07,420
It's just calling to me.

643
00:47:07,441 --> 00:47:10,943
Brad was getting really good
but he was also sketchy.

644
00:47:14,690 --> 00:47:16,900
I have not seen that
many climbers like Brad.

645
00:47:16,900 --> 00:47:19,840
He's a freaking
strong climber and has

646
00:47:19,840 --> 00:47:22,100
an amazing head for climbing.

647
00:47:22,100 --> 00:47:24,130
All right, this is a bad idea.

648
00:47:24,130 --> 00:47:26,450
Brad definitely qualifies
into that category

649
00:47:26,450 --> 00:47:27,970
of one of those
people you've never

650
00:47:27,970 --> 00:47:30,160
heard of that's stronger
than all the people

651
00:47:30,160 --> 00:47:31,432
that you have heard of.

652
00:47:31,439 --> 00:47:33,310
Dude, it's so wet.

653
00:47:36,823 --> 00:47:39,904
Oh, man, that would
have been big.

654
00:47:44,080 --> 00:47:46,060
All right, yeah, grab your shit.

655
00:47:46,080 --> 00:47:47,991
Why are we up so early, Cedar?

656
00:47:48,000 --> 00:47:52,020
We're up so early because Brad
is what I call over stoker.

657
00:47:52,020 --> 00:47:55,440
Yeah, I sort of just zone out on
everything except for climbing.

658
00:47:55,440 --> 00:47:59,050
Yeah, Brad's over stoker.

659
00:47:59,050 --> 00:48:01,520
Some link ups, do
a lot of climbing.

660
00:48:01,520 --> 00:48:03,196
Got to get ready for the spring.

661
00:48:03,196 --> 00:48:07,570
Yeah, I got to get
ready for sleep.

662
00:48:07,570 --> 00:48:09,510
Brad's beyond stoked, for sure.

663
00:48:09,510 --> 00:48:11,760
He has these big goals and
he really wants to do them.

664
00:48:11,760 --> 00:48:14,650
So he puts a lot of pressure
on himself to make that happen.

665
00:48:14,650 --> 00:48:17,280
Goes out to Eldo and
dispatches every single one

666
00:48:17,280 --> 00:48:19,520
of the scariest, hardest
routes on the Rincon wall.

667
00:48:19,520 --> 00:48:21,270
Most climbers are
really psyched to send

668
00:48:21,270 --> 00:48:22,934
one of those routes in a day.

669
00:48:22,934 --> 00:48:26,322
[MUSIC PLAYING]

670
00:48:32,130 --> 00:48:34,084
The routes are R rated.

671
00:48:34,084 --> 00:48:35,750
You can break your
legs on some of them.

672
00:48:35,750 --> 00:48:39,020
Not most people's idea of
a fun day out at the crag.

673
00:48:43,820 --> 00:48:46,490
All right, up here
with the Brad Gobright,

674
00:48:46,490 --> 00:48:50,420
doing what I like to do
most, hanging out with men

675
00:48:50,420 --> 00:48:53,570
in their underwear at the crag.

676
00:48:53,570 --> 00:48:55,492
Brad freaking forgot his shorts.

677
00:48:55,492 --> 00:48:57,200
But he wasn't going
to let that stop him.

678
00:48:57,200 --> 00:48:58,991
He just like stripped
down to his skivvies,

679
00:48:58,991 --> 00:49:01,550
put his knee pad on, and got
on the most dangerous route

680
00:49:01,550 --> 00:49:02,936
of the day.

681
00:49:02,936 --> 00:49:06,422
[MUSIC PLAYING]

682
00:49:27,163 --> 00:49:31,026
Come on, get it.

683
00:49:31,026 --> 00:49:32,730
Oh, fuck.

684
00:49:32,730 --> 00:49:33,820
Dude, that was so nasty.

685
00:49:33,820 --> 00:49:35,430
Oh, that wouldn't have held.

686
00:49:35,430 --> 00:49:37,688
Shit, dude.

687
00:49:37,688 --> 00:49:38,380
Nice, dude.

688
00:49:38,380 --> 00:49:39,722
You didn't break your leg.

689
00:49:39,722 --> 00:49:41,450
Psyched.

690
00:49:41,450 --> 00:49:43,096
It's not over.

691
00:49:43,096 --> 00:49:46,041
Nice, dude, but
don't fuck it up.

692
00:49:46,527 --> 00:49:47,026
Sweet.

693
00:49:49,230 --> 00:49:50,115
Yeah.

694
00:49:50,115 --> 00:49:51,570
All right.

695
00:49:51,570 --> 00:49:52,960
Yeah, trendsetter.

696
00:49:52,960 --> 00:49:55,020
You wear boxers, too,
not even boxer briefs.

697
00:49:55,020 --> 00:49:56,540
Right, they make my balls itch.

698
00:49:56,540 --> 00:49:59,950
I like to just kind
of let it hang.

699
00:49:59,950 --> 00:50:02,690
That guy has climbed so
many impressive climbs.

700
00:50:02,690 --> 00:50:08,270
But even more impressive
is his ropeless climbing.

701
00:50:08,270 --> 00:50:09,680
Brad's a full solo climber.

702
00:50:09,680 --> 00:50:13,550
I mean, he's been
soloing for years.

703
00:50:13,550 --> 00:50:16,360
I mean, there's just very
clear, obvious consequences

704
00:50:16,360 --> 00:50:17,980
if you mess up on a solo.

705
00:50:17,980 --> 00:50:19,056
It's pretty clear cut.

706
00:50:19,056 --> 00:50:20,180
You either send or you die.

707
00:50:29,900 --> 00:50:31,410
I do experience fear.

708
00:50:31,410 --> 00:50:34,470
But I've learned to deal
with it when I'm up there.

709
00:50:40,390 --> 00:50:42,370
Getting to the point
where I'm like 100%

710
00:50:42,370 --> 00:50:44,440
certain I can do
it without falling,

711
00:50:44,440 --> 00:50:45,850
that's very satisfying.

712
00:50:54,160 --> 00:50:55,720
How do you feel, Brad?

713
00:50:55,720 --> 00:50:57,710
Oh, such a good climb.

714
00:50:57,710 --> 00:50:59,550
This is what climbing
is all about.

715
00:50:59,550 --> 00:51:02,620
Doesn't get much
better than that.

716
00:51:02,620 --> 00:51:05,650
The only other person out there
that's doing the solos like him

717
00:51:05,650 --> 00:51:08,339
is Alex Honnold.

718
00:51:08,355 --> 00:51:10,713
If I was on a deserted
island with Brad Gobright,

719
00:51:10,717 --> 00:51:12,300
I would let him have
sex with me, yes.

720
00:51:14,960 --> 00:51:18,470
Everybody knows who Honnold,
Yosemite's best free soloist.

721
00:51:18,470 --> 00:51:20,810
Probably the most famous
climber in the world.

722
00:51:20,810 --> 00:51:23,570
Brad, on the other
hand, not famous, poor,

723
00:51:23,570 --> 00:51:25,670
and solos in a scrappy
little climbing area

724
00:51:25,670 --> 00:51:27,260
called Eldorado canyon.

725
00:51:27,260 --> 00:51:29,360
Which is funny because
it's like a climbing area

726
00:51:29,360 --> 00:51:30,865
that a lot of people hate.

727
00:51:30,865 --> 00:51:33,600
[YELLING]

728
00:51:33,600 --> 00:51:35,003
It is scary.

729
00:51:37,874 --> 00:51:38,982
I hit my head.

730
00:51:38,990 --> 00:51:39,800
It's run out.

731
00:51:39,800 --> 00:51:40,820
It's sandbagged.

732
00:51:40,820 --> 00:51:42,600
You go there thinking
you can climb 5.11

733
00:51:42,600 --> 00:51:44,727
and then you can
barely get up 5.9.

734
00:51:49,100 --> 00:51:51,490
Holy fuck.

735
00:51:51,490 --> 00:51:53,220
I don't look at Eldo
and think, like,

736
00:51:53,220 --> 00:51:54,720
that's a place I
want to go soloing.

737
00:51:59,470 --> 00:52:01,976
It's not like Yosemite where
it's like a splitter crack,

738
00:52:01,976 --> 00:52:03,850
you know, and you're
locked in on every move.

739
00:52:03,850 --> 00:52:07,510
You're on these faces,
exposed, doing hard moves

740
00:52:07,510 --> 00:52:09,060
that are irreversible.

741
00:52:09,060 --> 00:52:12,040
Once you do a section, you're
not going to down climb anymore.

742
00:52:12,040 --> 00:52:13,926
It gives you the heebie
jeebies, doesn't it?

743
00:52:13,926 --> 00:52:16,050
It's like, my hands are
sweating thinking about it.

744
00:52:21,730 --> 00:52:26,290
One of the reasons I like
Eldo, it's a little exciting.

745
00:52:26,290 --> 00:52:28,010
There's just an
element of insecurity

746
00:52:28,010 --> 00:52:31,520
that makes the soloing a lot
more serious and therefore

747
00:52:31,520 --> 00:52:33,030
a lot more impressive.

748
00:52:33,030 --> 00:52:35,450
I mean, to me, they seem
pretty hard and pretty scary.

749
00:52:35,450 --> 00:52:37,010
And I find Eldo
in general to feel

750
00:52:37,010 --> 00:52:39,050
really slippery and insecure.

751
00:52:39,050 --> 00:52:44,210
For many years, the hardest solo
in Eldo was The Naked Edge.

752
00:52:44,210 --> 00:52:48,230
And for Brad, it's
an afternoon romp.

753
00:52:48,230 --> 00:52:50,000
You know, I can do
The Naked Edge house

754
00:52:50,000 --> 00:52:52,220
to house in under an hour.

755
00:52:52,220 --> 00:52:54,890
He's like soloed The
Edge over 25 times.

756
00:52:54,890 --> 00:52:56,740
He's soloed The
Naked Edge 25 times?

757
00:52:56,740 --> 00:52:57,920
Are you for real?

758
00:52:57,920 --> 00:52:58,700
Yeah.

759
00:52:58,700 --> 00:53:00,126
That's fucked up.

760
00:53:00,126 --> 00:53:03,402
[MUSIC PLAYING]

761
00:53:06,069 --> 00:53:08,610
Almost like a playground, you
know, you can go from one route

762
00:53:08,610 --> 00:53:09,690
to the next.

763
00:53:09,690 --> 00:53:12,850
Brad is the best soloist
in the history of Eldo.

764
00:53:23,500 --> 00:53:26,054
Why haven't most people
have heard of Brad Gobright?

765
00:53:26,054 --> 00:53:27,970
I would say most people
haven't heard of Brad.

766
00:53:27,970 --> 00:53:30,906
He's definitely a bit of a
dark horse, kind of underdog.

767
00:53:33,130 --> 00:53:35,350
You know, like he
barely has any sponsors.

768
00:53:35,350 --> 00:53:36,650
Nobody knows who he is, really.

769
00:53:36,650 --> 00:53:38,108
I mean, even though
he's definitely

770
00:53:38,108 --> 00:53:40,690
one of the more talented
climbers in the country.

771
00:53:40,690 --> 00:53:43,060
It's like rock climbing is
becoming an actual sport.

772
00:53:43,060 --> 00:53:45,500
Like Honnold's got his own book.

773
00:53:45,500 --> 00:53:46,300
There it is.

774
00:53:46,300 --> 00:53:48,887
That's pretty pro right there.

775
00:53:48,887 --> 00:53:50,970
I don't want to pay for
it, so I'm just reading it

776
00:53:50,970 --> 00:53:53,242
here in the bookstore.

777
00:53:53,242 --> 00:53:54,700
If I didn't exist
it would be like,

778
00:53:54,700 --> 00:53:56,410
oh, rad, like nobody else
is really soloing hard

779
00:53:56,410 --> 00:53:57,659
like that in the US right now.

780
00:53:57,659 --> 00:53:58,709
Like that's pretty cool.

781
00:53:58,709 --> 00:54:00,250
But it's just sort
of unlucky for him

782
00:54:00,250 --> 00:54:02,370
that I've already kind
of stolen some of that.

783
00:54:02,370 --> 00:54:03,210
Yeah.

784
00:54:03,210 --> 00:54:07,120
I'll give him a free pair of
shoes as a consolation prize.

785
00:54:07,120 --> 00:54:09,370
Honnold doesn't feel feelings
as far as I'm concerned.

786
00:54:09,370 --> 00:54:12,120
But maybe Brad's
similar, actually.

787
00:54:12,120 --> 00:54:13,620
Maybe they're just
two and the same.

788
00:54:19,070 --> 00:54:20,652
I mean, there's at
least some chance

789
00:54:20,652 --> 00:54:23,110
that most higher end soloists
have some kind of personality

790
00:54:23,110 --> 00:54:23,740
disorder.

791
00:54:23,740 --> 00:54:25,365
But the thing is,
everybody has quirks.

792
00:54:25,365 --> 00:54:27,980
Like everyone has something
going on with their life.

793
00:54:27,980 --> 00:54:29,660
Brad is a quirky guy.

794
00:54:29,660 --> 00:54:31,850
He's not what I would
call pro climber material.

795
00:54:31,850 --> 00:54:33,720
My name's, uh, Brad Gobright.

796
00:54:33,720 --> 00:54:35,195
I'm a Blue Water athlete.

797
00:54:35,195 --> 00:54:38,546
I was using the 9.7 Lighting--

798
00:54:38,546 --> 00:54:40,510
[BLEEP]

799
00:54:40,510 --> 00:54:42,050
He's short, goofy looking.

800
00:54:42,050 --> 00:54:44,200
I wouldn't call him
wildly handsome.

801
00:54:44,200 --> 00:54:46,350
Oh, pink is my
favorite color, so--

802
00:54:46,350 --> 00:54:47,610
He's no Sharma, you know?

803
00:54:47,610 --> 00:54:50,000
There there's no, like,
waving glorious hair

804
00:54:50,000 --> 00:54:52,430
in the perfect light
as he like, dah-dah!

805
00:54:52,430 --> 00:54:54,080
I would call him
socially awkward.

806
00:54:54,080 --> 00:54:57,230
Totally destroyed
Cedar's toilet.

807
00:54:57,230 --> 00:54:58,810
I would call his
eating habits poor.

808
00:54:58,810 --> 00:55:00,518
Fruit loop donuts,
have you seen those?

809
00:55:00,518 --> 00:55:02,270
He ate an entire
apple pie one time.

810
00:55:02,270 --> 00:55:04,850
I watched him devour
an entire apple pie

811
00:55:04,850 --> 00:55:06,389
in like a matter of 10 minutes.

812
00:55:06,389 --> 00:55:08,930
He's the kind of guy that shows
up to the crag with a donut.

813
00:55:08,930 --> 00:55:11,300
Old fashioned glazed, they
didn't have sprinkles.

814
00:55:11,300 --> 00:55:14,570
I'm like, dude, that's gnarly.

815
00:55:14,570 --> 00:55:17,400
I forgot my glazed croissant.

816
00:55:17,400 --> 00:55:20,040
Brad is climbing at a super
high level, whereas, you know,

817
00:55:20,040 --> 00:55:21,870
his life situation, not so much.

818
00:55:21,870 --> 00:55:24,630
I got to be at work
at 4:00 to bus tables.

819
00:55:24,630 --> 00:55:29,280
Putting table cloths on
tables for rich people.

820
00:55:29,280 --> 00:55:30,531
Oh yeah, he's a great climber.

821
00:55:30,531 --> 00:55:32,530
But then it's like
everything else, you're like,

822
00:55:32,530 --> 00:55:33,678
dude, what are you doing?

823
00:55:33,678 --> 00:55:35,011
Oh, how did I forget that?

824
00:55:35,011 --> 00:55:35,510
Man.

825
00:55:35,510 --> 00:55:37,880
Oh man, you forgot the rack
or you tied the rope in a knot

826
00:55:37,880 --> 00:55:38,280
again.

827
00:55:38,280 --> 00:55:39,571
It's like, what the heck, dude?

828
00:55:39,571 --> 00:55:41,415
It's like I just
put it in my pack.

829
00:55:41,415 --> 00:55:44,000
I must have put it
on top of my jacket.

830
00:55:44,000 --> 00:55:45,530
How can you be such
a Space Cadet?

831
00:55:45,530 --> 00:55:46,920
Like, what is wrong with you?

832
00:55:46,920 --> 00:55:48,930
This is what Honnold's
talking about, Brad.

833
00:55:48,930 --> 00:55:50,270
Oh, I've got to get it together.

834
00:55:50,270 --> 00:55:54,360
Yeah, this is not the mark
of a professional, dude.

835
00:55:54,360 --> 00:55:56,720
It's actually a good
argument for soloing.

836
00:55:56,720 --> 00:56:01,630
You just have to remember
your shoes and your chalk bag.

837
00:56:01,630 --> 00:56:03,005
There's so much
less to remember.

838
00:56:11,250 --> 00:56:14,450
So I am going to rappel
down the Doub-Griffith.

839
00:56:14,450 --> 00:56:19,590
Thought I'd rap down, rope solo
it a bit, see how it feels.

840
00:56:19,590 --> 00:56:21,740
There's a reason that the
Doub-Griffith has never

841
00:56:21,740 --> 00:56:22,930
been soloed.

842
00:56:22,930 --> 00:56:25,820
It's really technical
and powerful.

843
00:56:25,820 --> 00:56:27,590
There's like thin, thin holds.

844
00:56:27,590 --> 00:56:30,020
And there's like parts the
climb where you can't really

845
00:56:30,020 --> 00:56:32,040
back off.

846
00:56:32,040 --> 00:56:35,100
I'm not going to deny that
it's not a dangerous activity.

847
00:56:35,100 --> 00:56:35,860
It is.

848
00:56:35,860 --> 00:56:37,410
But I love free soloing.

849
00:56:37,410 --> 00:56:40,550
And it's just kind of about the
beauty and simplicity of moving

850
00:56:40,550 --> 00:56:42,506
up a rock wall all by yourself.

851
00:56:47,400 --> 00:56:50,732
I think in the beginning there's
always kind of the butterflies,

852
00:56:50,732 --> 00:56:52,190
and then they kind
of just go away.

853
00:57:05,210 --> 00:57:08,270
By the time I'm like in the
middle of it all, I'm just 100%

854
00:57:08,270 --> 00:57:10,584
focused and into
that little bubble.

855
00:57:10,584 --> 00:57:12,500
You're not really being
distracted by anything

856
00:57:12,500 --> 00:57:17,390
else other than like the
few moves in front of you.

857
00:57:17,390 --> 00:57:21,390
[MUSIC PLAYING]

858
00:57:41,390 --> 00:57:43,580
Occasionally there are
these like harder climbs,

859
00:57:43,580 --> 00:57:45,050
like the Doub-Griffith.

860
00:57:45,050 --> 00:57:47,630
Those aren't routes I'd be
soloing all the time or even

861
00:57:47,630 --> 00:57:48,270
a second time.

862
00:57:54,020 --> 00:57:57,855
It's a next level solo for
Eldorado Canyon, and really

863
00:57:57,855 --> 00:58:00,500
a next level solo for
soloing in general.

864
00:58:05,280 --> 00:58:06,910
Brad had started
reading the comments,

865
00:58:06,910 --> 00:58:08,190
you know, on Facebook.

866
00:58:08,190 --> 00:58:09,550
That's always a mistake.

867
00:58:09,550 --> 00:58:10,680
Can't read that shit.

868
00:58:15,844 --> 00:58:17,260
I think what a lot
of people don't

869
00:58:17,260 --> 00:58:22,030
see is all the time and
dedication and mileage

870
00:58:22,030 --> 00:58:24,070
it took to get to this point.

871
00:58:24,070 --> 00:58:25,960
I personally feel
like Brad falls

872
00:58:25,960 --> 00:58:27,335
closer to my end
of the spectrum,

873
00:58:27,335 --> 00:58:29,085
where he is just sort
of rational about it

874
00:58:29,085 --> 00:58:30,110
like, oh, I can do this.

875
00:58:30,110 --> 00:58:30,901
I feel comfortable.

876
00:58:30,901 --> 00:58:32,620
So I'll just do it.

877
00:58:32,620 --> 00:58:35,380
A lot of people don't really get
the whole free soloing thing.

878
00:58:35,380 --> 00:58:39,490
But all I can say is that I
feel really solid up there.

879
00:58:39,490 --> 00:58:42,100
You know, you're 100% focused.

880
00:58:42,100 --> 00:58:44,320
But I think a lot of times
when people get on a rope,

881
00:58:44,320 --> 00:58:45,403
they let their guard down.

882
00:58:49,949 --> 00:58:51,822
Come on.

883
00:58:57,934 --> 00:58:59,890
That's liked a fucked up fall.

884
00:58:59,890 --> 00:59:03,451
Brad had been trying this 5.14r
called Viceroy on Top Rope,

885
00:59:03,451 --> 00:59:05,700
probably one of the most
difficult and dangerous trad

886
00:59:05,700 --> 00:59:07,110
climbs in the country.

887
00:59:07,110 --> 00:59:08,910
Basically, there's
just one more day

888
00:59:08,910 --> 00:59:10,508
to climb it before
a huge storm was

889
00:59:10,508 --> 00:59:12,174
going to come in and
shut down the route

890
00:59:12,174 --> 00:59:13,467
for the entire season.

891
00:59:13,467 --> 00:59:15,300
But I just figured, you
know, what the hell.

892
00:59:15,300 --> 00:59:15,925
I'll go for it.

893
00:59:43,534 --> 00:59:44,522
Fuck.

894
00:59:44,522 --> 00:59:45,998
Fuck.

895
00:59:45,998 --> 00:59:46,498
Oh.

896
00:59:56,390 --> 00:59:58,669
There was like 20
minutes of panic.

897
00:59:58,669 --> 01:00:00,960
I'd never broken my back
before, but I knew right away.

898
01:00:00,960 --> 01:00:02,210
I was like, oh yeah, it broke.

899
01:00:02,210 --> 01:00:06,576
[MUSIC PLAYING]

900
01:00:25,678 --> 01:00:27,192
Yeah.

901
01:00:27,850 --> 01:00:31,121
Just got hasty and
I just went for it.

902
01:00:31,139 --> 01:00:34,445
We brought you chocolate
covered peanut butter things.

903
01:00:34,445 --> 01:00:36,790
I don't know if you're
allowed to have any.

904
01:00:36,790 --> 01:00:39,730
When Brad broke his
back, it was shocking.

905
01:00:39,730 --> 01:00:42,950
My first concern was, you know,
is he going to recover from it?

906
01:00:42,950 --> 01:00:45,370
Like how serious is the damage?

907
01:00:45,370 --> 01:00:48,250
Brad had two compression
fractures in his back,

908
01:00:48,250 --> 01:00:49,342
broke his ankle.

909
01:00:49,342 --> 01:00:50,800
You know, before
the accident, Brad

910
01:00:50,800 --> 01:00:51,980
was at the top of his game.

911
01:01:03,812 --> 01:01:04,320
Yeah.

912
01:01:04,320 --> 01:01:09,882
As it turns out, crutches and a
back brace are not a fun combo.

913
01:01:09,882 --> 01:01:11,230
Oh yeah.

914
01:01:11,230 --> 01:01:13,910
Climbing is the most
important thing in my life.

915
01:01:13,910 --> 01:01:15,857
So when I got
injured, it was tough.

916
01:01:15,857 --> 01:01:18,190
There wasn't much for me to
do because rock climbing was

917
01:01:18,190 --> 01:01:20,000
really all that I did.

918
01:01:20,000 --> 01:01:21,620
So here we are.

919
01:01:21,620 --> 01:01:23,804
Brad's, like,
unbridled enthusiasm

920
01:01:23,804 --> 01:01:25,220
is what makes him
a great climber.

921
01:01:25,220 --> 01:01:27,890
But it's also, I think, why
he sometimes injures himself.

922
01:01:27,890 --> 01:01:32,860
He just gets so stoked that
maybe he doesn't think things

923
01:01:32,860 --> 01:01:33,850
through enough.

924
01:01:33,850 --> 01:01:36,360
And that's definitely
what happened on Viceroy.

925
01:01:36,360 --> 01:01:39,739
Damn, should have
backed up that cam.

926
01:01:39,739 --> 01:01:42,072
Or I should have just stuck
the move and sent the route.

927
01:01:42,072 --> 01:01:43,960
That would have been better.

928
01:01:43,960 --> 01:01:46,690
Being so stoked that
you do something stupid

929
01:01:46,690 --> 01:01:50,176
is one of the dangers of
loving climbing that much.

930
01:01:50,176 --> 01:01:54,064
[MUSIC PLAYING]

931
01:02:00,400 --> 01:02:04,060
I would say in
the last 12 years,

932
01:02:04,060 --> 01:02:06,820
climbing and climbers
have changed a lot.

933
01:02:06,820 --> 01:02:10,210
I think that nowadays you're
getting these really strong,

934
01:02:10,210 --> 01:02:13,140
really timid climbers.

935
01:02:13,140 --> 01:02:15,330
People are afraid to run it out.

936
01:02:15,330 --> 01:02:17,790
They're afraid to take
risks because they learn

937
01:02:17,790 --> 01:02:21,390
to climb in a climbing gym
where everything is super safe

938
01:02:21,390 --> 01:02:24,180
and Brad Gobright
is the antidote

939
01:02:24,180 --> 01:02:27,415
to that in a lot of ways.

940
01:02:27,415 --> 01:02:28,750
Let's do it.

941
01:02:28,750 --> 01:02:31,300
I've definitely been getting
weird looks in the gym.

942
01:02:31,300 --> 01:02:33,400
You know, like, oh man,
what happened to that guy?

943
01:02:33,400 --> 01:02:34,510
He didn't just
break his back, he

944
01:02:34,510 --> 01:02:35,718
broke his ankle and his back.

945
01:02:38,631 --> 01:02:39,130
[BLEEP]

946
01:02:39,130 --> 01:02:42,210
See, this is what sucks
about having a back brace

947
01:02:42,210 --> 01:02:43,170
and crutches.

948
01:02:48,930 --> 01:02:50,830
I just like picturing
him, you know, just

949
01:02:50,830 --> 01:02:52,115
hanging from like
a little crimp.

950
01:02:52,115 --> 01:02:54,950
And all the sudden, click, and
he's like paralyzed for life.

951
01:02:54,950 --> 01:02:57,660
Good news is like
in a month from now,

952
01:02:57,660 --> 01:03:00,310
my fingers will be the
strongest they've ever been.

953
01:03:00,310 --> 01:03:04,361
The bad news is that I'll
be terrified to rock climb.

954
01:03:04,361 --> 01:03:08,337
Trad climbing
will be way scary.

955
01:03:13,820 --> 01:03:16,970
When you have an
accident like Brad had,

956
01:03:16,970 --> 01:03:19,370
it's really hard,
not only just to recover

957
01:03:19,370 --> 01:03:21,170
physically but mentally.

958
01:03:21,170 --> 01:03:22,910
You know, especially
someone like Brad

959
01:03:22,910 --> 01:03:25,721
who was really at this
outer level in boldness.

960
01:03:29,082 --> 01:03:32,090
I was still like a little
nervous about tweaking my back.

961
01:03:32,090 --> 01:03:35,930
And I felt very
mentally out of shape.

962
01:03:35,930 --> 01:03:37,730
But it was really
important to me

963
01:03:37,730 --> 01:03:39,620
that I made a full
recovery because I still

964
01:03:39,620 --> 01:03:41,210
had some big goals in climbing.

965
01:03:44,200 --> 01:03:47,200
I mean, that's the thing I love
about Brad is his commitment.

966
01:03:47,200 --> 01:03:49,970
He's more committed
than any other climber

967
01:03:49,970 --> 01:03:51,340
I know of right now.

968
01:03:51,340 --> 01:03:53,383
He's more obsessed than anybody.

969
01:04:00,750 --> 01:04:03,255
At that point in time,
coming back from my injury,

970
01:04:03,255 --> 01:04:05,130
the thought of soloing
something hard in Eldo

971
01:04:05,130 --> 01:04:07,405
seemed very unlikely.

972
01:04:10,080 --> 01:04:12,450
I went up there by myself.

973
01:04:12,450 --> 01:04:15,070
There was like pretty much no
one in the canyon that day.

974
01:04:15,070 --> 01:04:19,110
Then I kind of started
to think about it again.

975
01:04:19,110 --> 01:04:22,450
Right at the top of the Bastille
is Hairstyles and Attitudes,

976
01:04:22,450 --> 01:04:27,090
one of the most exposed and
difficult lines in the canyon.

977
01:04:27,090 --> 01:04:29,520
A few years ago I led
Hairstyles and Attitudes

978
01:04:29,520 --> 01:04:32,860
and afterward I just
thought about how amazing

979
01:04:32,860 --> 01:04:36,660
it would feel to be up
there with just a chalk bag.

980
01:04:36,660 --> 01:04:39,150
Every solo Brad had done
in Eldo so far felt

981
01:04:39,150 --> 01:04:42,000
like an incremental
step in his progression.

982
01:04:42,000 --> 01:04:44,680
But to me, Hairstyles felt
like a whole new level.

983
01:04:47,240 --> 01:04:50,670
It's balanc-y style of climbing.

984
01:04:50,670 --> 01:04:51,890
It's very thin edges.

985
01:04:51,890 --> 01:04:53,740
It's a little slippery.

986
01:04:53,740 --> 01:04:56,470
But mostly it's
just super exposed.

987
01:04:56,470 --> 01:04:59,941
It's so high off the ground.

988
01:04:59,941 --> 01:05:01,440
I've climbed
Hairstyles and Attitude

989
01:05:01,440 --> 01:05:04,680
and I couldn't imagine
soloing that route, especially

990
01:05:04,680 --> 01:05:05,568
with how short he is.

991
01:05:05,574 --> 01:05:07,230
You have to really
stand on your feet

992
01:05:07,230 --> 01:05:10,160
and just get fully
stretched out.

993
01:05:10,160 --> 01:05:12,900
Yeah, soloing something like
Hairstyles is definitely hard.

994
01:05:12,900 --> 01:05:14,820
But I feel like Brad is
actually surprisingly

995
01:05:14,820 --> 01:05:16,528
conservative in his approach.

996
01:05:16,535 --> 01:05:19,040
I'd climb it so many times
where I got to that point

997
01:05:19,040 --> 01:05:21,880
where I was like, I
know I'm going to be OK.

998
01:05:21,880 --> 01:05:25,540
I've probably climbed this
about 50 times, no joke,

999
01:05:25,540 --> 01:05:27,290
over the past few years.

1000
01:05:27,290 --> 01:05:28,839
And in the last
month, I've actually

1001
01:05:28,852 --> 01:05:30,490
been climbing it more and more.

1002
01:05:30,490 --> 01:05:33,050
I'm going to go ahead and do
this little sequence again.

1003
01:05:33,050 --> 01:05:34,560
Of course, people
are going to say

1004
01:05:34,560 --> 01:05:35,968
that soloing something
like Hairstyles

1005
01:05:35,961 --> 01:05:40,010
is reckless or totally
insane, but it's his dream.

1006
01:05:40,010 --> 01:05:42,210
And you've just got
to respect that.

1007
01:05:42,210 --> 01:05:44,710
It's not just some sport hobby,
you know, it's my passion.

1008
01:05:44,710 --> 01:05:45,480
It's my life.

1009
01:05:45,480 --> 01:05:47,730
I want to look back on these
years and be super proud.

1010
01:05:54,270 --> 01:05:58,220
Hairstyles and Attitudes was
the hardest solo to commit to.

1011
01:05:58,220 --> 01:06:00,740
I was concerned that maybe
I would be a little more

1012
01:06:00,740 --> 01:06:02,960
tense than I should
be and it might make

1013
01:06:02,960 --> 01:06:04,836
the climbing feel different.

1014
01:06:20,950 --> 01:06:23,410
You get to that rest,
you're shaken out,

1015
01:06:23,410 --> 01:06:25,240
you're thinking about it.

1016
01:06:25,240 --> 01:06:29,490
But once you move up past
that ledge, it's 100% on.

1017
01:06:29,490 --> 01:06:30,600
There's no down climbing.

1018
01:06:30,600 --> 01:06:32,600
You're either going to
be coming off the wall

1019
01:06:32,600 --> 01:06:34,225
or you're going to
be going to the top.

1020
01:06:36,030 --> 01:06:38,490
Filming someone hanging from
like a couple millimeters

1021
01:06:38,490 --> 01:06:41,507
of rock, it's nerve wracking
filming that kind of stuff,

1022
01:06:41,507 --> 01:06:43,201
you know, it's intense.

1023
01:07:25,110 --> 01:07:27,810
Once I watched Brad climb the
first bit of hard climbing,

1024
01:07:27,810 --> 01:07:30,930
I knew he was 100% committed.

1025
01:07:30,930 --> 01:07:33,880
He was climbing super
deliberately and in control.

1026
01:07:52,710 --> 01:07:56,100
You know, then Brad came to
the crux, the hardest and most

1027
01:07:56,100 --> 01:07:57,570
insecure moves in
the entire route.

1028
01:08:25,160 --> 01:08:26,660
You know, it wasn't
like, oh my god.

1029
01:08:26,660 --> 01:08:27,210
I'm falling off.

1030
01:08:27,210 --> 01:08:27,918
I'm going to die.

1031
01:08:27,918 --> 01:08:29,785
But it was like, oh,
this feels a little bit

1032
01:08:29,785 --> 01:08:30,660
different than usual.

1033
01:08:34,420 --> 01:08:36,984
There was still a lot
of hard climbing to do

1034
01:08:36,984 --> 01:08:38,650
and I just had to
forget it and move on.

1035
01:08:57,000 --> 01:09:02,330
Yeah, I'm like kind of
overgripping, I think.

1036
01:09:02,330 --> 01:09:05,620
After that sketchy moment, I
can barely hold my camera still

1037
01:09:05,620 --> 01:09:06,974
to get a shot.

1038
01:09:06,974 --> 01:09:08,390
All I wanted to
do the entire time

1039
01:09:08,390 --> 01:09:10,390
was like through him the
fucking rope, you know?

1040
01:09:14,880 --> 01:09:18,321
But somehow he's able to dial
everything back and focus.

1041
01:09:22,035 --> 01:09:24,410
For Brad, it was like that
last 10 feet of climbing never

1042
01:09:24,410 --> 01:09:24,910
happened.

1043
01:09:41,140 --> 01:09:44,050
Watching Brad solo
Hairstyles was

1044
01:09:44,050 --> 01:09:47,140
one of the most terrifying
but most bad ass things

1045
01:09:47,140 --> 01:09:48,730
I've ever seen in climbing.

1046
01:09:48,730 --> 01:09:50,590
And I'm pretty sure
that no one's ever

1047
01:09:50,590 --> 01:09:51,950
going to do it again.

1048
01:09:51,950 --> 01:09:53,772
I've been wanting
to that for awhile.

1049
01:09:53,772 --> 01:09:55,570
One of the best, right?

1050
01:09:55,570 --> 01:09:56,946
So good.

1051
01:09:56,939 --> 01:09:58,287
[YELLING]

1052
01:09:59,010 --> 01:10:02,280
I had a small sense of
relief coming over the top.

1053
01:10:02,280 --> 01:10:04,713
But mostly I just
felt so stoked.

1054
01:10:04,713 --> 01:10:06,704
That was definitely one
of the proudest climbs

1055
01:10:06,703 --> 01:10:08,070
of my life for sure.

1056
01:10:23,300 --> 01:10:25,550
You know, all the bold
climbing Brad's been doing,

1057
01:10:25,550 --> 01:10:27,350
some people find
it irresponsible.

1058
01:10:27,350 --> 01:10:29,629
But rock climbing,
it's not golf, OK?

1059
01:10:29,629 --> 01:10:31,190
It's supposed to be dangerous.

1060
01:10:31,190 --> 01:10:33,709
I mean, people think climbing
should be this safe sport

1061
01:10:33,709 --> 01:10:35,209
like gymnastics or something.

1062
01:10:35,209 --> 01:10:35,990
I say, screw that.

1063
01:10:35,990 --> 01:10:37,610
I'm all, climbing is
supposed to be adventurous.

1064
01:10:37,610 --> 01:10:39,235
It's supposed to be
a little dangerous.

1065
01:10:39,235 --> 01:10:41,030
It's supposed to be
exciting, you know?

1066
01:10:41,030 --> 01:10:42,034
I mean, what the [BLEEP]

1067
01:10:42,034 --> 01:10:45,499
[MUSIC PLAYING]

1068
01:11:37,570 --> 01:11:39,607
So how'd you lose your arm?

1069
01:11:39,607 --> 01:11:41,440
Someone took the guard
off the wood chipper.

1070
01:11:44,430 --> 01:11:46,030
You're lucky, this
could really--

1071
01:11:49,290 --> 01:11:51,810
I only stuck my arm out of
the shark tank for a second.

1072
01:11:57,160 --> 01:11:59,960
I was trying to get the fork
out of the garbage disposal.

1073
01:12:03,060 --> 01:12:05,180
Alligators don't
belong at petting zoos.

1074
01:12:09,830 --> 01:12:12,726
I didn't eat my vegetables
and it fell off.

1075
01:12:15,281 --> 01:12:17,617
When you get out of a
helicopter, never wave.

1076
01:12:21,209 --> 01:12:23,250
I do have a friend who
lost his hand to fireworks

1077
01:12:23,250 --> 01:12:24,770
so I won't make
a fireworks joke.

1078
01:12:24,770 --> 01:12:25,860
That happens a lot.

1079
01:12:28,352 --> 01:12:30,810
I was born without my hand,
and they're still not sure why.

1080
01:12:30,810 --> 01:12:33,569
My mom wasn't on
drugs, so I'm told.

1081
01:12:33,580 --> 01:12:34,375
Sorry, mom.

1082
01:12:35,240 --> 01:12:37,550
I don't want to be known for
being a one armed climber.

1083
01:12:37,550 --> 01:12:39,360
And it's tough,
because, like, I get it.

1084
01:12:39,360 --> 01:12:40,740
That's what makes me special.

1085
01:12:40,740 --> 01:12:42,780
But I'd rather be
just a good climber.

1086
01:12:42,780 --> 01:12:44,530
Like I don't want to
be good for a girl.

1087
01:12:44,530 --> 01:12:46,110
I don't want to be good
for just having one hand.

1088
01:12:46,110 --> 01:12:47,818
I just want to be a
good climber, period.

1089
01:12:52,160 --> 01:12:55,590
[GRUNTING]

1090
01:12:55,590 --> 01:12:57,670
[YELLING]

1091
01:12:57,676 --> 01:13:00,000
Fucker, I was so close.

1092
01:13:05,880 --> 01:13:09,310
Stump dicks.

1093
01:13:09,310 --> 01:13:09,943
So weird.

1094
01:13:09,939 --> 01:13:12,430
Can't show that to my mom.

1095
01:13:12,430 --> 01:13:14,280
My name is James Scheri.

1096
01:13:14,280 --> 01:13:17,100
I climb stuff, all
kinds of stuff.

1097
01:13:20,270 --> 01:13:22,940
Normally I wake up every
morning and it's holy fuck,

1098
01:13:22,940 --> 01:13:24,330
I don't have a leg anymore.

1099
01:13:24,330 --> 01:13:24,940
Do you really?

1100
01:13:24,940 --> 01:13:25,300
No.

1101
01:13:25,310 --> 01:13:27,059
OK.

1102
01:13:27,059 --> 01:13:29,350
I've been climbing with
Maureen for a little while now,

1103
01:13:29,350 --> 01:13:30,850
and there's pretty
much three things

1104
01:13:30,850 --> 01:13:32,861
that you need to know about her.

1105
01:13:32,851 --> 01:13:34,991
One, animals.

1106
01:13:35,250 --> 01:13:37,680
I love animals so much.

1107
01:13:37,680 --> 01:13:38,840
Good, chickens.

1108
01:13:38,840 --> 01:13:40,150
Yeah, I do love my chickens.

1109
01:13:40,150 --> 01:13:42,190
They don't love me.

1110
01:13:42,190 --> 01:13:43,700
Two, junk food.

1111
01:13:43,700 --> 01:13:46,810
Oh my god, mac and cheese,
grilled cheese, carbs

1112
01:13:46,810 --> 01:13:48,340
and cheese together.

1113
01:13:48,340 --> 01:13:51,640
She pretty much has the
diet of a five-year-old kid.

1114
01:13:51,640 --> 01:13:55,510
And three, she is currently
the best one armed female

1115
01:13:55,510 --> 01:13:57,194
climber in the world.

1116
01:13:57,194 --> 01:13:59,002
[CHEERING]

1117
01:13:59,002 --> 01:14:01,371
She also probably has
the record for cupcakes

1118
01:14:01,378 --> 01:14:02,998
eaten on a climbing podium.

1119
01:14:05,784 --> 01:14:08,100
You know, losing
your legs sucks.

1120
01:14:08,100 --> 01:14:09,260
It's not fun, right.

1121
01:14:09,260 --> 01:14:11,930
But like as climbers, we
use our hands quite a bit.

1122
01:14:11,930 --> 01:14:14,810
And your feet, you can kind of
fake it, right, like, I mean,

1123
01:14:14,810 --> 01:14:16,680
not that I'm saying it's easy.

1124
01:14:16,680 --> 01:14:19,140
But the thing with
climbing with a stump,

1125
01:14:19,140 --> 01:14:21,920
it's just baffling to me.

1126
01:14:21,920 --> 01:14:23,580
I do a lot of matching.

1127
01:14:23,580 --> 01:14:26,690
I grab a lot of holds backwards
because I'll just make it work.

1128
01:14:26,690 --> 01:14:28,250
I can side pull with it.

1129
01:14:28,250 --> 01:14:29,360
I can lay back with it.

1130
01:14:29,360 --> 01:14:30,770
I can jam it in a crack.

1131
01:14:30,770 --> 01:14:32,660
If there's a jug, I
have to hook from above.

1132
01:14:32,660 --> 01:14:34,350
If I can get the
right angle on crimps,

1133
01:14:34,350 --> 01:14:37,010
I can actually catch
the edge of the crimp

1134
01:14:37,010 --> 01:14:38,990
if I'm really delicate.

1135
01:14:38,990 --> 01:14:41,780
Watching her clip
doesn't ever look solid.

1136
01:14:41,780 --> 01:14:42,320
Take.

1137
01:14:42,320 --> 01:14:44,810
I'll get like toes
to tits heel hook

1138
01:14:44,810 --> 01:14:47,842
to keep me on while I clip.

1139
01:14:47,842 --> 01:14:49,550
Sometime last summer
I decided, you know,

1140
01:14:49,550 --> 01:14:51,960
I want to find something
hard and I want to lead it.

1141
01:14:51,960 --> 01:14:54,290
And so a friend of mine
recommended Reefer Madness,

1142
01:14:54,290 --> 01:14:58,850
which is an 11a, four
star 11a in Clear Creek.

1143
01:14:58,850 --> 01:15:00,500
And I probably spent
five or six days

1144
01:15:00,500 --> 01:15:03,480
on top rope, three of which I
thought, this is impossible.

1145
01:15:03,480 --> 01:15:05,000
I can't do it.

1146
01:15:05,000 --> 01:15:07,820
And then on the fourth day, I
unlocked some kind of sequence

1147
01:15:07,820 --> 01:15:10,714
where all of a sudden I
thought, whoa, this is possible.

1148
01:15:10,714 --> 01:15:12,019
[GRUNTING]

1149
01:15:12,018 --> 01:15:13,500
You got this.

1150
01:15:13,511 --> 01:15:14,499
Yeah.

1151
01:15:15,160 --> 01:15:17,110
Not that long ago I would
have just settled

1152
01:15:17,110 --> 01:15:19,760
for being a 5.8 top rope
climber for the rest of my life.

1153
01:15:19,760 --> 01:15:22,090
And then I did Reefer
Madness and it just

1154
01:15:22,090 --> 01:15:24,130
didn't seem that hard.

1155
01:15:24,130 --> 01:15:25,960
It was such an eye
opening experience.

1156
01:15:25,960 --> 01:15:29,620
I was just like, I should
be doing harder routes.

1157
01:15:29,620 --> 01:15:32,710
I don't get the impression
that she has any intention

1158
01:15:32,710 --> 01:15:35,250
of stopping anytime soon.

1159
01:15:35,250 --> 01:15:37,700
[MUSIC PLAYING]

1160
01:15:39,609 --> 01:15:41,650
People come up to us in
the gym and they're like,

1161
01:15:41,650 --> 01:15:44,191
we just saw you guys climbing
and we're just really inspired.

1162
01:15:44,191 --> 01:15:47,210
And it's like, we're not
doing anything inspiring.

1163
01:15:47,210 --> 01:15:49,370
We're just climbing in a
gym like everyone else.

1164
01:15:49,370 --> 01:15:54,040
Like-- pretty sure
I could like rapel

1165
01:15:54,040 --> 01:15:55,723
and you'd be inspired by it.

1166
01:15:59,800 --> 01:16:01,330
I don't want someone
to look at me

1167
01:16:01,330 --> 01:16:03,456
and just focus on the
one on the one arm.

1168
01:16:06,319 --> 01:16:08,610
I don't want someone to look
at James and just be like,

1169
01:16:08,610 --> 01:16:11,280
he's good for one
leg, or something.

1170
01:16:11,280 --> 01:16:13,320
I think climbing
with disabled people

1171
01:16:13,320 --> 01:16:15,850
has come so far in
the last few years.

1172
01:16:15,850 --> 01:16:18,270
Craig has climbed 5.13.

1173
01:16:18,270 --> 01:16:19,960
Ryan's climbed v10.

1174
01:16:19,960 --> 01:16:21,870
It's just like, I
think we should all

1175
01:16:21,870 --> 01:16:24,350
be held to the same standard.

1176
01:16:24,350 --> 01:16:26,250
The perception in
America, they're

1177
01:16:26,250 --> 01:16:28,480
so shocked that you're
doing something.

1178
01:16:28,480 --> 01:16:30,480
And so they react one
way, which is like,

1179
01:16:30,480 --> 01:16:32,640
oh my gosh, that's so inspiring.

1180
01:16:32,640 --> 01:16:37,530
When for the athlete, they
definitely don't like that.

1181
01:16:37,530 --> 01:16:39,382
I don't mind inspiring
other adaptive people

1182
01:16:39,382 --> 01:16:41,340
or disabled people,
because I think they really

1183
01:16:41,340 --> 01:16:43,631
do have this barrier to entry,
this barrier to thinking

1184
01:16:43,631 --> 01:16:44,700
of what's possible.

1185
01:16:44,700 --> 01:16:45,750
When you're ready.

1186
01:16:45,750 --> 01:16:47,490
But when someone from
the abled community

1187
01:16:47,490 --> 01:16:49,220
comments on one of
my photos, like, wow,

1188
01:16:49,220 --> 01:16:50,284
now I have no excuses.

1189
01:16:50,284 --> 01:16:51,700
I'm like, well, I
never really had

1190
01:16:51,700 --> 01:16:53,436
an excuse in the first place.

1191
01:16:53,436 --> 01:16:55,495
I think it's cool to
get recognized when

1192
01:16:55,495 --> 01:16:57,661
you go above and beyond or
are trying hard and doing

1193
01:16:57,661 --> 01:17:00,690
cool shit, but I don't think
we should be celebrated

1194
01:17:00,690 --> 01:17:02,820
just because we're disabled.

1195
01:17:02,820 --> 01:17:06,210
Just like bringing disabled
people to a level lower than,

1196
01:17:06,210 --> 01:17:07,790
you know, able-bodied people.

1197
01:17:07,790 --> 01:17:09,550
It's like that question
where, when you're climbing,

1198
01:17:09,550 --> 01:17:10,520
do you forget your disabled?

1199
01:17:10,527 --> 01:17:11,660
And I'm like, no.

1200
01:17:11,660 --> 01:17:12,981
Why would I want to
forget I'm disabled?

1201
01:17:12,974 --> 01:17:14,112
I freaking love my life.

1202
01:17:14,464 --> 01:17:16,749
[CHATTER]

1203
01:17:17,670 --> 01:17:21,850
I think that the image of a
disabled person in America

1204
01:17:21,850 --> 01:17:24,839
is built up to be helpless.

1205
01:17:24,839 --> 01:17:26,880
I understand the media is
fascinated with telling

1206
01:17:26,889 --> 01:17:28,377
stories of disabled people.

1207
01:17:28,369 --> 01:17:32,610
But the way that they portray
us is just comically bad.

1208
01:17:32,610 --> 01:17:35,460
Typing may not seem a
difficult task to you and me.

1209
01:17:35,460 --> 01:17:37,270
It's very accurate.

1210
01:17:37,270 --> 01:17:40,390
Nor is it out of the
ordinary for Maureen Beck.

1211
01:17:40,390 --> 01:17:42,420
Like typing, for real?

1212
01:17:42,420 --> 01:17:45,790
From birth, limits have tried
to interfere with her life.

1213
01:17:45,790 --> 01:17:49,310
And since that day, she's
shrugged those limits aside.

1214
01:17:49,310 --> 01:17:50,790
I think the worst
one was when they

1215
01:17:50,790 --> 01:17:53,580
made us rope up on the
second flatiron, which

1216
01:17:53,580 --> 01:17:56,370
is a 5.0 climb that
people in Boulder

1217
01:17:56,370 --> 01:17:57,510
do in their Birkenstocks.

1218
01:17:57,510 --> 01:17:59,820
As the sun rises
above the Flatirons,

1219
01:17:59,820 --> 01:18:04,144
James Scheri and Maureen Beck
see a challenge on the horizon.

1220
01:18:04,136 --> 01:18:06,030
You know, it's a climb
that everybody in our group

1221
01:18:06,030 --> 01:18:07,890
had soloed dozens of times.

1222
01:18:07,890 --> 01:18:10,410
These climbers with
disabilities only

1223
01:18:10,410 --> 01:18:14,160
see opportunity at the base
of this towering sandstone.

1224
01:18:14,160 --> 01:18:15,360
Whoa, look at this.

1225
01:18:15,360 --> 01:18:16,884
Like they can actually do it.

1226
01:18:16,884 --> 01:18:18,300
And the whole day
we're just like,

1227
01:18:18,300 --> 01:18:21,090
this is kind of fucking boring.

1228
01:18:21,090 --> 01:18:23,760
To ascend a wall
riddled with pitfalls,

1229
01:18:23,760 --> 01:18:25,140
the team works together.

1230
01:18:25,140 --> 01:18:26,820
You're good to climb.

1231
01:18:26,820 --> 01:18:31,470
They see ability in
their disability.

1232
01:18:31,470 --> 01:18:33,420
On the mountain,
this group showed

1233
01:18:33,420 --> 01:18:36,400
us there is no summit
too high to reach,

1234
01:18:36,400 --> 01:18:42,740
giving those with disabilities
a new view on life.

1235
01:18:42,740 --> 01:18:45,740
People have these falsely
deflated expectations

1236
01:18:45,740 --> 01:18:50,520
of disabled athletes and
it really does affect us.

1237
01:18:50,520 --> 01:18:52,570
I did a comp, a
World Cup, actually,

1238
01:18:52,570 --> 01:18:55,070
we're all training really hard
and we show up and the routes

1239
01:18:55,070 --> 01:18:56,560
are like 5.8, 5.9, and 5.10.

1240
01:18:56,560 --> 01:19:00,580
And I'm like, I flew
to Europe for this?

1241
01:19:00,580 --> 01:19:02,630
I actually was like
upset enough about it

1242
01:19:02,630 --> 01:19:03,690
that I spoke to one
of the organizers

1243
01:19:03,690 --> 01:19:05,861
and was like, hey, like these
routes were way too easy.

1244
01:19:05,861 --> 01:19:07,040
Like, it's not cool.

1245
01:19:07,040 --> 01:19:08,860
And the guy actually
said, well oh, it just

1246
01:19:08,860 --> 01:19:11,151
makes the crowd feel really
good when you guys top out.

1247
01:19:11,151 --> 01:19:14,072
And I was just like.

1248
01:19:14,072 --> 01:19:15,740
Makes me feel like shit.

1249
01:19:15,740 --> 01:19:19,070
We're real athletes just
like the able-bodied team.

1250
01:19:19,070 --> 01:19:20,730
We don't claim to be special.

1251
01:19:20,730 --> 01:19:22,490
We don't plan to win
some silly awards.

1252
01:19:22,490 --> 01:19:25,362
Like we just climb because
we love climbing, just

1253
01:19:25,362 --> 01:19:27,390
like everybody else.

1254
01:19:27,390 --> 01:19:30,300
[MUSIC PLAYING]

1255
01:19:39,040 --> 01:19:42,330
We go all the way up to
Wyoming to climb in Vedauwoo.

1256
01:19:42,330 --> 01:19:44,235
I think that I'm going
to be a nice person

1257
01:19:44,235 --> 01:19:46,830
and bring a cooler
full of beer and ice

1258
01:19:46,830 --> 01:19:49,490
so we can have cold
beer to drink all day.

1259
01:19:49,490 --> 01:19:52,800
And I hand the cooler to
Mo for like two seconds

1260
01:19:52,800 --> 01:19:55,900
and the next thing I know.

1261
01:19:55,900 --> 01:19:58,860
The cooler broke and it's
10:00 AM and we're out of beer.

1262
01:19:58,860 --> 01:20:02,880
The beer is everywhere, all
over the rocky ground, spraying.

1263
01:20:02,880 --> 01:20:03,960
Destroyed.

1264
01:20:03,960 --> 01:20:04,562
Pound it.

1265
01:20:04,562 --> 01:20:05,062
Come on.

1266
01:20:05,062 --> 01:20:06,360
There's still stuff in there.

1267
01:20:06,360 --> 01:20:08,950
10 o'clock in the
morning in Vedauwoo.

1268
01:20:08,981 --> 01:20:09,943
Woo.

1269
01:20:13,810 --> 01:20:15,690
It's like breakfast beer.

1270
01:20:15,690 --> 01:20:16,880
Waste not want not.

1271
01:20:16,880 --> 01:20:19,204
There are sober children.

1272
01:20:19,204 --> 01:20:20,620
Luckily I'm like
10 pounds heavier

1273
01:20:20,620 --> 01:20:23,100
and I can just wedge my
stomach into the off width.

1274
01:20:28,430 --> 01:20:31,440
That was the carbonation,
too, I promise.

1275
01:20:31,440 --> 01:20:33,030
Want to go rock climbing?

1276
01:20:33,030 --> 01:20:34,520
I have to be burped first.

1277
01:20:34,520 --> 01:20:38,515
Yeah, Maureen can be a junk
show every now and then.

1278
01:20:38,515 --> 01:20:40,220
We seriously got lost
like eight times.

1279
01:20:40,220 --> 01:20:41,280
My groin!

1280
01:20:41,280 --> 01:20:43,650
But like once she
is climbing, it

1281
01:20:43,650 --> 01:20:46,350
seems like the junk
show kind of goes away.

1282
01:20:46,350 --> 01:20:48,430
Maybe it's just that
whole, she's so excited

1283
01:20:48,429 --> 01:20:49,890
to climb she's
not really worried

1284
01:20:49,890 --> 01:20:52,380
about the actual
planning process.

1285
01:20:52,380 --> 01:20:53,125
We're not lost.

1286
01:20:53,125 --> 01:20:53,859
Are you sure?

1287
01:20:53,859 --> 01:20:54,650
We're totally lost.

1288
01:20:54,650 --> 01:20:56,170
I have no idea where we are.

1289
01:20:56,170 --> 01:20:58,086
This is unbelievable.

1290
01:20:58,100 --> 01:20:59,230
I'm a new boulderer.

1291
01:20:59,230 --> 01:21:01,240
Bouldering is really
hard with one hand.

1292
01:21:06,940 --> 01:21:08,940
The fuck am I doing?

1293
01:21:08,940 --> 01:21:09,690
She'll fail.

1294
01:21:09,690 --> 01:21:12,480
She doesn't mind failing.

1295
01:21:12,480 --> 01:21:15,540
To me, I watch that and
I'm like, that's bad ass.

1296
01:21:15,540 --> 01:21:17,885
It's pretty cool to see.

1297
01:21:17,885 --> 01:21:18,580
Shit.

1298
01:21:18,580 --> 01:21:20,800
Would it help if there
was a cupcake at the top?

1299
01:21:20,800 --> 01:21:21,337
Probably.

1300
01:21:21,337 --> 01:21:22,920
One of the biggest
things I've learned

1301
01:21:22,920 --> 01:21:23,880
in the last couple
of years is when

1302
01:21:23,880 --> 01:21:26,100
it's OK to walk away and
not be mad at yourself

1303
01:21:26,100 --> 01:21:28,225
because just not all
climbs are meant to happen.

1304
01:21:30,799 --> 01:21:32,340
It's really sweet
going on a climbing

1305
01:21:32,340 --> 01:21:33,450
trip with other
adaptive climbers,

1306
01:21:33,450 --> 01:21:35,700
because no one's taking
the time to say, oh, no.

1307
01:21:35,700 --> 01:21:36,630
You can't do that.

1308
01:21:36,630 --> 01:21:38,570
Or, oh, be careful there.

1309
01:21:38,570 --> 01:21:46,459
Oh, don't let Budget
see this video.

1310
01:21:46,459 --> 01:21:48,250
The more I hang out
with adaptive climbers,

1311
01:21:48,250 --> 01:21:49,830
the more I'm pushing myself.

1312
01:21:49,830 --> 01:21:51,960
I'm not giving them
any slack and I fully

1313
01:21:51,960 --> 01:21:53,910
expect them to
not give me slack.

1314
01:21:53,917 --> 01:21:55,193
Nice, Ryan, nice.

1315
01:21:55,200 --> 01:21:57,780
Seeing other adaptive athletes
really push the limits

1316
01:21:57,780 --> 01:22:00,477
and see how hard
they can go, it makes

1317
01:22:00,482 --> 01:22:02,710
me want to be less of a fat
ass and see how hard I can go.

1318
01:22:07,600 --> 01:22:10,534
[MUSIC PLAYING]

1319
01:22:12,990 --> 01:22:15,050
5.12 is something that
two years ago I'd tell you

1320
01:22:15,050 --> 01:22:19,060
you are absolutely bat shit
for thinking I could do it.

1321
01:22:19,060 --> 01:22:22,600
I think for every climber their
first 5.12 is that first, cool,

1322
01:22:22,600 --> 01:22:24,580
I'm a climber.

1323
01:22:24,580 --> 01:22:26,460
I mean, there's a book,
How to Climb 5.12.

1324
01:22:26,460 --> 01:22:29,950
There's not a book that says
how to climb 5.11 or 5.8, 5.9.

1325
01:22:29,950 --> 01:22:32,085
There's a friggin book
called How to Climb 5.12.

1326
01:22:32,085 --> 01:22:32,911
Have you read it?

1327
01:22:33,390 --> 01:22:34,600
No.

1328
01:22:34,600 --> 01:22:36,248
Oh shit.

1329
01:22:36,248 --> 01:22:37,180
Oops.

1330
01:22:37,180 --> 01:22:39,820
Obviously, I failed miserably.

1331
01:22:39,820 --> 01:22:41,170
That's not the way to do it.

1332
01:22:41,170 --> 01:22:45,640
But it's 5.12, it's
supposed to be hard.

1333
01:22:45,640 --> 01:22:48,610
So right now I'm working
on Days of Future Past.

1334
01:22:48,610 --> 01:22:54,930
The crux is crossing over a
greasy shallow offsize crack.

1335
01:22:54,930 --> 01:22:57,060
Most people can just reach
over to the good hold.

1336
01:22:57,060 --> 01:23:00,180
But having a friggin
negative 13 ape index

1337
01:23:00,180 --> 01:23:01,170
makes it a little hard.

1338
01:23:05,234 --> 01:23:06,650
And even when I
get the good hold,

1339
01:23:06,650 --> 01:23:08,480
it's like, how am I
going to match this?

1340
01:23:08,480 --> 01:23:10,195
Just grab it with my left hand?

1341
01:23:16,852 --> 01:23:19,332
[YELLING]

1342
01:23:20,100 --> 01:23:22,797
There were definitely moves on
the route that seemed harder

1343
01:23:22,797 --> 01:23:24,380
than anything I had
ever tried before.

1344
01:23:24,380 --> 01:23:26,070
But there was something
about it that just clicked.

1345
01:23:26,070 --> 01:23:27,620
I thought, this could work.

1346
01:23:30,690 --> 01:23:33,680
This route is more
technical than Burl, which

1347
01:23:33,680 --> 01:23:35,540
I think is her strong suit.

1348
01:23:35,540 --> 01:23:37,100
She is very precise.

1349
01:23:37,100 --> 01:23:38,630
And she's able to take her time.

1350
01:23:38,630 --> 01:23:40,730
And she's able to
kind of sort it out.

1351
01:23:40,730 --> 01:23:42,690
I think if I just
try really hard.

1352
01:23:46,090 --> 01:23:48,780
It wasn't long before I had
the bottom climb completely

1353
01:23:48,780 --> 01:23:51,300
memorized.

1354
01:23:51,300 --> 01:23:53,060
The top section,
you know it's hard.

1355
01:23:53,060 --> 01:23:53,740
It's pumpy.

1356
01:23:53,740 --> 01:23:54,280
It's steep.

1357
01:23:54,280 --> 01:23:57,370
But it's totally doable.

1358
01:23:57,370 --> 01:23:59,267
The biggest question
mark for me was, was I

1359
01:23:59,267 --> 01:24:01,600
going to be able to do the
crux, which starts on a ledge

1360
01:24:01,600 --> 01:24:04,304
and it isn't over until
you grab a big chickenhead.

1361
01:24:04,304 --> 01:24:06,720
The hardest move is trying to
get that freaking stump jam.

1362
01:24:10,100 --> 01:24:14,184
I must have gone up
over a dozen times.

1363
01:24:14,184 --> 01:24:16,514
[YELLING]

1364
01:24:16,514 --> 01:24:19,695
So fucking close.

1365
01:24:19,695 --> 01:24:22,880
[YELLING]

1366
01:24:25,670 --> 01:24:27,680
Something wasn't
connecting for me

1367
01:24:27,680 --> 01:24:30,035
to be able to just
pull off this move.

1368
01:24:30,035 --> 01:24:31,620
It's 5.12, man.

1369
01:24:31,620 --> 01:24:33,632
I'm actually happy
on the inside.

1370
01:24:34,549 --> 01:24:37,345
[YELLING]

1371
01:24:37,830 --> 01:24:39,590
Feels better every time.

1372
01:24:39,590 --> 01:24:45,100
We're out here for about
the 15th or 16th time.

1373
01:24:45,100 --> 01:24:48,824
I need cheese and
meat and crackers.

1374
01:24:48,824 --> 01:24:51,240
I'll bring some healthy snacks,
but you always need Oreos.

1375
01:24:51,240 --> 01:24:52,880
I don't think you can
climb without Oreos.

1376
01:24:52,880 --> 01:24:53,690
Just double stuff.

1377
01:24:53,690 --> 01:24:56,630
Like if you like single
stuff, you hate America.

1378
01:24:56,630 --> 01:24:57,750
She knows, like, OK.

1379
01:24:57,750 --> 01:24:59,140
It might not happen this week.

1380
01:24:59,140 --> 01:25:00,510
It might not happen next month.

1381
01:25:00,510 --> 01:25:02,280
But I think in her
head it will happen.

1382
01:25:02,280 --> 01:25:05,197
I spent a lot of time last
night visualizing the send.

1383
01:25:05,197 --> 01:25:06,030
So maybe it will go.

1384
01:25:06,030 --> 01:25:06,574
Maybe it won't.

1385
01:25:06,574 --> 01:25:07,370
Probably won't.

1386
01:25:07,370 --> 01:25:08,520
But I think it's go time.

1387
01:25:08,520 --> 01:25:09,707
I think it's time to start.

1388
01:25:09,707 --> 01:25:12,040
I think I've turned into like
a total projecting wanker.

1389
01:25:12,040 --> 01:25:14,312
Like I don't go climb
for fun anymore.

1390
01:25:14,312 --> 01:25:15,590
Fucker.

1391
01:25:15,590 --> 01:25:18,322
I'm sick of walking up
here three times a week.

1392
01:25:18,322 --> 01:25:20,780
I'll complain about having to
go to do my project, kind of.

1393
01:25:20,780 --> 01:25:22,880
I'll be like, yeah, I'm going
to go work the project again.

1394
01:25:22,874 --> 01:25:25,280
Or I'm getting sick
and tired of it.

1395
01:25:25,280 --> 01:25:27,770
But I just, I love that
process of taking something

1396
01:25:27,770 --> 01:25:30,860
that was impossible
and then doing it,

1397
01:25:30,860 --> 01:25:33,140
even if there is
some psycho insanity

1398
01:25:33,147 --> 01:25:35,070
time wasting in the middle.

1399
01:25:35,077 --> 01:25:36,063
What the fuck.

1400
01:25:42,569 --> 01:25:45,032
Bear is one of my tribe and
I find it really motivating

1401
01:25:45,047 --> 01:25:47,100
that he still gets up
and after it every day.

1402
01:25:47,108 --> 01:25:48,438
He could just give up
on life but instead

1403
01:25:48,432 --> 01:25:50,970
he's out here chewing sticks.

1404
01:25:50,970 --> 01:25:52,870
That's one inspiring dog.

1405
01:25:52,870 --> 01:25:54,754
I just, never thought
I'd be a projector.

1406
01:25:54,743 --> 01:25:56,860
Because before I did, I
thought it was boring.

1407
01:25:56,860 --> 01:25:59,754
How could you do the same climb
100 times when there's so many

1408
01:25:59,764 --> 01:26:00,320
climbs out there.

1409
01:26:00,320 --> 01:26:04,710
But now that I'm kind of
into it, it's kind of fun.

1410
01:26:04,710 --> 01:26:05,210
It's wet.

1411
01:26:05,210 --> 01:26:06,390
It's cold.

1412
01:26:06,390 --> 01:26:07,160
And I'm sick.

1413
01:26:10,121 --> 01:26:10,620
Shit.

1414
01:26:10,820 --> 01:26:12,500
I've always had this feeling
I could do the climb, that's

1415
01:26:12,500 --> 01:26:13,430
why I started it.

1416
01:26:13,430 --> 01:26:15,280
But I haven't been able
to do the crux move.

1417
01:26:15,280 --> 01:26:16,772
Like, it's still
shutting me down.

1418
01:26:16,772 --> 01:26:18,230
And that's when I
started to think,

1419
01:26:18,230 --> 01:26:19,720
maybe I just
actually can't do it.

1420
01:26:19,720 --> 01:26:22,120
Maybe someone with my hand
just can't do this route.

1421
01:26:25,930 --> 01:26:27,930
And so I went into this
lead attempt being like,

1422
01:26:27,930 --> 01:26:28,950
I'm going to fall.

1423
01:26:41,880 --> 01:26:44,190
And then I stuck the crux.

1424
01:26:44,190 --> 01:26:46,601
And I thought, holy
cow, this is it.

1425
01:27:05,770 --> 01:27:07,260
And I was like, oh shit.

1426
01:27:07,260 --> 01:27:10,644
I fell off after the crux.

1427
01:27:10,644 --> 01:27:11,590
Fuck.

1428
01:27:11,590 --> 01:27:14,494
I might be spent.

1429
01:27:14,494 --> 01:27:16,660
I realized it was going to
be a really big challenge

1430
01:27:16,660 --> 01:27:20,060
to link it all together.

1431
01:27:20,060 --> 01:27:23,996
[MUSIC PLAYING]

1432
01:27:37,290 --> 01:27:39,920
Pretty much I haven't really
been projecting a whole route.

1433
01:27:39,920 --> 01:27:42,420
I've been projecting three feet
of climbing for the last six

1434
01:27:42,420 --> 01:27:43,420
months.

1435
01:27:43,420 --> 01:27:47,170
And when I say that, it
makes me feel insane.

1436
01:27:47,170 --> 01:27:49,974
Like, definition
of an insane person

1437
01:27:49,974 --> 01:27:51,012
doing the same
thing over and over

1438
01:27:51,016 --> 01:27:53,330
and expecting a
different result,

1439
01:27:53,330 --> 01:27:58,340
my face is next to that
definition in the dictionary.

1440
01:27:58,340 --> 01:28:01,380
I'm so close on this climb that
the littlest things I think

1441
01:28:01,380 --> 01:28:02,633
will make a difference.

1442
01:28:07,507 --> 01:28:09,840
I don't think she's had to
train that much up until now.

1443
01:28:09,840 --> 01:28:12,790
I think she's kind of just
done her thing and ate cupcakes

1444
01:28:12,790 --> 01:28:14,352
and called it good.

1445
01:28:14,352 --> 01:28:15,810
Whereas now, it's
like, if you want

1446
01:28:15,810 --> 01:28:17,520
to start climbing like
a harder route, I mean,

1447
01:28:17,520 --> 01:28:18,728
you kind of do have to train.

1448
01:28:22,180 --> 01:28:23,200
I hate cardio.

1449
01:28:23,200 --> 01:28:24,280
I hate running.

1450
01:28:24,280 --> 01:28:25,090
I suck at it.

1451
01:28:25,090 --> 01:28:26,659
But I'm slowly getting
convinced that it really

1452
01:28:26,653 --> 01:28:29,732
does help with like
overall fitness, I guess.

1453
01:28:29,732 --> 01:28:32,600
[MUSIC PLAYING]

1454
01:28:34,040 --> 01:28:34,930
My name's Nellie.

1455
01:28:34,930 --> 01:28:36,150
I'm Mo's trainer.

1456
01:28:36,150 --> 01:28:38,960
I'm here to take her
from 5.9 plus to 5.12.

1457
01:28:38,960 --> 01:28:40,348
Faster, harder.

1458
01:28:40,355 --> 01:28:42,747
Come on, Maureen.

1459
01:28:42,747 --> 01:28:43,985
5.12 doesn't climb itself.

1460
01:28:43,992 --> 01:28:47,274
[MUSIC PLAYING]

1461
01:28:51,210 --> 01:28:52,089
Come on, Maureen.

1462
01:28:52,089 --> 01:28:53,630
Something is clicking
and I'm getting

1463
01:28:53,630 --> 01:28:57,516
stronger and more confident.

1464
01:28:57,516 --> 01:28:58,890
I mean, I can
ascend it whenever.

1465
01:28:58,890 --> 01:29:00,120
It's just this film is due.

1466
01:29:00,120 --> 01:29:03,823
It's like, fuck, it's due
in five days to Reel Rock.

1467
01:29:23,310 --> 01:29:27,270
In Boulder Canyon one-armed
climber, Maureen Beck,

1468
01:29:27,270 --> 01:29:31,530
attempts to inspire the world by
being the first one-armed woman

1469
01:29:31,530 --> 01:29:36,789
to ascend the notorious
difficulty score of 5.12a.

1470
01:29:36,790 --> 01:29:38,490
It's like toes to tits.

1471
01:29:38,490 --> 01:29:39,150
What to do.

1472
01:29:39,150 --> 01:29:40,140
What to do.

1473
01:29:40,140 --> 01:29:43,260
Standing in the way of her
most inspirational ascent

1474
01:29:43,260 --> 01:29:46,696
is one slippery, jengus crack.

1475
01:29:46,696 --> 01:29:48,648
[GRUNTING]

1476
01:29:48,648 --> 01:29:50,180
I [BLEEP] up.

1477
01:29:50,180 --> 01:29:54,320
Maureen has fallen from this
crack on to her safety string

1478
01:29:54,320 --> 01:29:55,840
time and time again.

1479
01:29:55,840 --> 01:29:58,910
Or, as her partner
James Scheri puts it.

1480
01:29:58,910 --> 01:30:02,060
She's whipped off of
[BLEEP] a million times.

1481
01:30:02,060 --> 01:30:05,670
When Disabled News 7 got
a hold of this story,

1482
01:30:05,670 --> 01:30:08,330
we searched for
another amputee could

1483
01:30:08,330 --> 01:30:11,090
speak to the difficulties
Maureen is facing

1484
01:30:11,090 --> 01:30:14,880
and possibly lend her a hand.

1485
01:30:14,880 --> 01:30:20,300
Meet Tommy, TC Pro Caldwell,
the world's most talented

1486
01:30:20,300 --> 01:30:22,970
disabled climber.

1487
01:30:22,970 --> 01:30:27,230
In 2008, Caldwell
severed his index finger

1488
01:30:27,230 --> 01:30:29,917
in a tragic home
improvement accident.

1489
01:30:40,061 --> 01:30:42,018
[YELLING]

1490
01:30:42,360 --> 01:30:44,940
After the accident, my
life completely changed.

1491
01:30:44,940 --> 01:30:48,510
We sat Tommy down for
an exclusive interview.

1492
01:30:48,510 --> 01:30:50,430
Everywhere I went
there was a reminder

1493
01:30:50,430 --> 01:30:52,050
of my crippling disability.

1494
01:30:52,050 --> 01:30:53,820
My gloves don't fit anymore.

1495
01:30:53,820 --> 01:30:55,050
I couldn't go bowling.

1496
01:30:55,050 --> 01:30:57,930
If I went to cup a big handful
of MandM's, like half of them

1497
01:30:57,930 --> 01:31:01,120
would just fall on the ground.

1498
01:31:01,120 --> 01:31:03,740
Like [BLEEP],, there
goes half my MandM's.

1499
01:31:03,740 --> 01:31:06,290
Disabled News 7
arranged for Tommy

1500
01:31:06,290 --> 01:31:10,130
to surprise Maureen
back in Boulder canyon.

1501
01:31:10,130 --> 01:31:12,920
When I heard that Maureen Beck
was going to try and climb 5.12

1502
01:31:12,920 --> 01:31:14,454
with one arm, I
thought to myself,

1503
01:31:14,454 --> 01:31:16,370
here's a girl that's
going to face a challenge

1504
01:31:16,370 --> 01:31:18,020
almost as big as mine.

1505
01:31:18,020 --> 01:31:19,190
We brought you a surprise.

1506
01:31:19,190 --> 01:31:21,597
OK, I hope it's cupcakes.

1507
01:31:21,597 --> 01:31:23,180
OK, what do you think
the surprise is?

1508
01:31:23,180 --> 01:31:24,200
Probably cupcakes.

1509
01:31:24,200 --> 01:31:27,600
Though initially disappointed
about the cupcakes,

1510
01:31:27,600 --> 01:31:30,500
Maureen was shocked to
meet her real surprise

1511
01:31:30,500 --> 01:31:33,740
right around the corner.

1512
01:31:33,740 --> 01:31:36,560
Because of their disabilities,
a friendship bonds

1513
01:31:36,560 --> 01:31:38,325
quickly between the two.

1514
01:31:38,325 --> 01:31:41,570
Oh hey, it's one of the tribe.

1515
01:31:41,570 --> 01:31:44,240
I came out to Boulder
canyon to inspire Maureen

1516
01:31:44,240 --> 01:31:45,960
to achieve the impossible.

1517
01:31:45,960 --> 01:31:47,372
This is your moment, Maureen.

1518
01:31:47,372 --> 01:31:49,580
When I was up on the Dawn
Wall, I looked at my stump,

1519
01:31:49,580 --> 01:31:51,530
and I was like, we can
do this little buddy.

1520
01:31:51,530 --> 01:31:52,730
Just think like that.

1521
01:31:52,730 --> 01:31:56,930
These horrifically disabled,
yet totally inspiring athletes

1522
01:31:56,930 --> 01:32:00,140
are setting the bar quite
high, making all of us

1523
01:32:00,140 --> 01:32:03,530
normal people be like,
what the [BLEEP]..

1524
01:32:03,530 --> 01:32:05,150
I believe in you, Maureen.

1525
01:32:05,150 --> 01:32:05,780
Come on.

1526
01:32:05,780 --> 01:32:09,020
Could it be possible that
disabled athletes are just

1527
01:32:09,020 --> 01:32:11,600
regular athletes, and
the rest of us who

1528
01:32:11,600 --> 01:32:14,930
find this so inspiring are
just boring [BLEEP] holes

1529
01:32:14,930 --> 01:32:16,430
with no [BLEEP] clue.

1530
01:32:16,430 --> 01:32:17,900
It's now or never.

1531
01:32:17,900 --> 01:32:19,360
You've got to
shove that stump in

1532
01:32:19,360 --> 01:32:21,320
deeper than you've
ever shoved it before.

1533
01:32:21,320 --> 01:32:24,110
Come on, Maureen, this
is your Dawn Wall!

1534
01:32:24,110 --> 01:32:30,990
With Tommy's support,
Maureen finally proves, she's

1535
01:32:30,990 --> 01:32:34,050
not that inspiring after all.

1536
01:32:34,050 --> 01:32:36,391
I just like, couldn't pull.

1537
01:32:42,820 --> 01:32:46,736
One, two.

1538
01:32:48,261 --> 01:32:49,760
We're all pretty
curious to see what

1539
01:32:49,760 --> 01:32:51,929
would happen if we
tie Tommy's arm back

1540
01:32:51,929 --> 01:32:53,220
and he could try it one handed.

1541
01:32:55,960 --> 01:32:58,137
Feels impossible.

1542
01:32:58,137 --> 01:33:00,470
Part of me was hoping he'd
unleash some of his Dawn Wall

1543
01:33:00,470 --> 01:33:03,290
on that shit and
just figure it out.

1544
01:33:03,290 --> 01:33:03,790
Fuck.

1545
01:33:08,410 --> 01:33:09,590
That's impossible.

1546
01:33:12,650 --> 01:33:18,669
Turns out, even a 5.15 climber
can't climb 5.12 with one hand.

1547
01:33:18,669 --> 01:33:20,210
Yeah, I have no idea
how you do that.

1548
01:33:20,210 --> 01:33:20,810
OK, good.

1549
01:33:20,810 --> 01:33:21,680
Good.

1550
01:33:21,680 --> 01:33:23,420
I'd be a little said
if you like flashed

1551
01:33:23,420 --> 01:33:24,962
my project with one arm.

1552
01:33:24,962 --> 01:33:26,936
I was like, this is impossible.

1553
01:33:30,910 --> 01:33:33,820
It's easy to let a project
like this stress you to death.

1554
01:33:33,820 --> 01:33:36,220
But I think if you just
remember why you went up

1555
01:33:36,220 --> 01:33:40,761
there the very first time to
try it, eventually, maybe,

1556
01:33:40,761 --> 01:33:41,260
you'll send.

1557
01:33:48,840 --> 01:33:52,290
I tried to really quiet my mind.

1558
01:33:52,290 --> 01:33:53,903
And I just think,
don't screw up.

1559
01:33:53,903 --> 01:33:54,548
Stay focused.

1560
01:33:54,548 --> 01:33:55,536
Breathe deep.

1561
01:34:32,550 --> 01:34:38,160
I finally get the crux and I'm
just pumped out of my mind.

1562
01:34:38,160 --> 01:34:40,320
I was definitely thinking,
this is my chance

1563
01:34:40,320 --> 01:34:42,390
to never have to
come up here again.

1564
01:34:58,430 --> 01:35:01,757
Somehow, I got the jug and
just, I couldn't believe it.

1565
01:35:01,757 --> 01:35:03,590
It was definitely just
like, don't screw up.

1566
01:35:03,590 --> 01:35:04,215
Don't screw up.

1567
01:35:09,050 --> 01:35:13,042
[MUSIC PLAYING]

1568
01:35:23,466 --> 01:35:24,917
Oh my god.

1569
01:35:30,008 --> 01:35:33,501
Holy shit.

1570
01:35:33,501 --> 01:35:34,998
I just did it.

1571
01:35:34,998 --> 01:35:39,988
James, I just climbed 5.12.

1572
01:35:39,988 --> 01:35:41,485
Ow.

1573
01:35:41,485 --> 01:35:43,380
Do you need cupcakes for that?

1574
01:35:43,380 --> 01:35:46,500
Yeah, I could force
down a cupcake.

1575
01:35:46,500 --> 01:35:49,590
We've got Oscar--

1576
01:35:49,590 --> 01:35:53,310
I think if it hadn't been
for the 50 tries leading up

1577
01:35:53,310 --> 01:35:55,400
to the send, it wouldn't
have felt as good.

1578
01:35:55,400 --> 01:35:56,000
It wouldn't have meant as much.

1579
01:35:56,000 --> 01:35:57,957
It would've just been
another rock climb.

1580
01:35:57,957 --> 01:35:59,790
Like this thing was my
best friend and worst

1581
01:35:59,790 --> 01:36:01,120
enemy for five months.

1582
01:36:01,120 --> 01:36:04,780
And now it's over.

1583
01:36:05,158 --> 01:36:07,106
This is my 8:30 in
the morning send beer.

1584
01:36:07,450 --> 01:36:09,030
It's delicious.

1585
01:36:09,034 --> 01:36:11,596
Hey, Tommy Caldwell
couldn't do this route.

1586
01:36:11,699 --> 01:36:13,195
Hey, Tommy Caldwell,
suck my stump.

1587
01:36:13,246 --> 01:36:16,596
[MUSIC PLAYING]

1588
01:36:17,305 --> 01:37:17,869
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